Tuesday, February 19, 2008

In the name of religion

'What people do in the name of religion' has been a popular phrase of mine for many years. When I worked as a tour guide, I would often say that to my visitors, usually pilgrims, as we worked our way through all the holy sites.

During the Spring Festival, the Chinese New Year, that heralds in the almond blossom and the first signs of the changing season, I took the opportunity to visit a couple of the famous landmarks. Not wishing to go in the colder months to the Forbidden City, I settled for the Temple of Heaven and the
Lama temple, otherwise known as the Yonghegong.

Built in 1694, it was created for political reasons, as the founder, the head Lama, was the leader of the yellow sect and Tibetan. Like all clever rulers, the Emperor thought that this move would give him a greater hold over the Mongolians too. This was also a benevolent move, as strong yellow was also the imperial color at that time.

Going into the temple through the main entrance, you have to pass a large number of shops, all selling the same thing, that is incense!! Wondering why there were all there and how they could all possibly make a living, I was soon to discover the answer.

The beautiful gateway in the traditional chinese style of a mixture of blues and reds, with a dash of white, greets you as you enter. The pavilions down the centre, 5 in all house the more impressive Budhas, Gods and treasures, but it was the ones lining the sides that caught my attention, as it was here that the Lama would go to study medicine, astromony and mathematics. His books were not of the traditional kind, bu long and narrow manuscripts, piled high in show cases and his astronomical equipment lying leisurely behind. I found in interesting and even inspiring that for each of the subjects that he chose to study, were kept in separate chambers, as if not to allow for an overflow of thought between them, but instead to use his full intellect and attention for the one chosen that particular day.

The temple area was full of visitors, carrying plastic bags full of boxes of incense in all color varieties and size. There were praying stools and incense burners available for use and people stood quietly in line whilst others would rock, sway or just quietly pray. Unlike other religions, where most sing out loud, here the prayers are conducted quietly, with three incense sticks clasped between their palms. Three for each post of prayer and after seeing how many statues and Gods their were there, I understood the need for so many purchases, as it would be wrong to favour one God more than the other.

Prayer wheels are for turning with the flat part of your palm, to the right only, as to the left would not allow for your wish to come true. In the fourth pavillion, the Hall of Budhist Scripture and Learning, the large golden statue of Zongleba is quite impressive. Not the largest statue by far in China, but impressive with its rows of seats and lamps spread out in front of it, for official learning periods.

After leaving the golden Budha, I entered the final and last hall. It was hear that I can only describe my emotions as being left speechless and tears formed in my eyes. I do not want you to mistake these feelings as one of worship, but more that of wonder, for here before my eyes, was not the most beautiful thing that I have ever seen, but the most impressive.

Before you read on, think of the pyramids of Egypt, the great stone slabs of the Temple, the tall austere flints of Stonehenge and with that in mind, continue.

Here before my eyes, made of one solid piece of wood, taken from the Tibetan hills, stands the statue of Maitrerya. It stands erect at 18 meters high, with another 6 meters below the ground.
This magnificent artistic piece was carved out from one piece, much the same as Michaelangelo's
David, that being of Marble and awe inspiring in another way. This statue, blew my mind, becasue it made me think of what a person will do in the name of their religion.

Unanswered questions: Did they go hunting for such a tall tree in the forest? Did they have in mind from the start the size they were looking for? Did they have a plan of how to move it across country at a time of no modern transport? How did they erect it? How did they carve it? How did they reach its height?

To each of these questions I have no answer, but can only stop and continue to wonder.
It was a beautiful experience that will stay with me for a long time.

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