A grassy shower

Having not yet had my fill of the zoo, although I was not so sure about its smells, I continued to visit some
of the other animals. Not wishing to stop on that limited time afternoon, to visit those that I was more familiar
with, I took a look a the white tigers, who were quite impressive, the wolves, that seemed hairier than others
that I had seen in the past as well as more ferocious and of course the other main attraction that I had come
to see, the African elephants.

Walking leisurely through the park and gardens, it is spotted with wooden buildings, that themselves lend a
charming and olde world look to the zoo. The lake, half frozen, hosts visiting magpies that reminded me of
home. More than an abundance of wooden benches are placed around and available for sitting and looking at
the lake and surroundings. There are nevertheless none placed in front of the cages and glass is used in the
inner enclosures to ensure safety. There are many keepers out and about, that are visible in their uniforms
and friendly and helpful if questioned.

To the left of the famous aquarium and dolphin show, is the elephant house. I arrived at feeding time. What
I enjoyed maybe, even more than the zoo itself, was seeing a large amount of the chinese, out and about with
young children, left to run free, not being carried or bundled up, but squeeling and shouting delightedly both
at the animals on display and at their own freedom. This in itself gave me tremendous joy, that at least here
at this spot, the parents and grandparents, as well as toddles and young children, felt at ease. Here I too
noted a stroller or two, being pushed by a native as opposed to an ex-pat. Admittedly it was a beautifully
mild day and for the first time I even felt a tinge bit warm in my fleece lined jacket.

The elephants, two large and one young one, at first gave me the benefit of there rear end, as they were busily
feeding themselves with an assortment of orange peel and apple. A keeper was injecting one of them in the
buttocks, as another distracted the animal by holding its large foot aloft with a special trainers stick. To the
amusement of all that were watching, as you can imagine, the creature didn't feel a thing!!

Pushing each other aside to be able to get to the juicier peels of fruit, the animals then proceeded to bathe
themselves with the surrounding hay. Blowing it up playfully, with their trunks and then throwing it over
their backs in apparent glee. It was a joyful sight indeed to see and I left that place, with cobwebs swept and
a happy smile on my face. There is no age limit on visiting the zoo.

Two black eyes

Are there any people out there who don't like Pandas? These furry blacked eyed 'bears' that look so adorable and
appear so clumsy, lacking in grace. When I mentioned to my Chinese colleagues that I intended to visit the zoo,
their reply was one of shock. 'Why on earth are you going there' was the question. This seemed most strange to me,
for why does one normally go to the zoo? Or was it because they thought that I was too old to enjoy such a pleasure? The next comment was 'okay, but what do you want to see there, that you won't have already seen
elsewhere?'. To this my reply of course, as you yourselves can well imagine, for after all I am at present in China,
was the Giant Pandas! On further conversation I undestood that these natives were immune to the attractiveness of
this wonderful species, as they were a common animal in this country and not necessarily a 'world heritage'.

So, on a glorious warm, end of winter day, I took myself, by myself, off to the zoo. Accessible both by subway, bus and taxi, I found it quite easily. Originally a park and then susequent garden, the zoo itself was opened to the public
in 1908, known then as The Garden of 10,000 Animals. Unfortunately in the years of ruling invaders, the park was left
unkempt and after the death of the only elephant in 1937, the remaining animals were poisoned. After the founding
of the People's Republic of China in 19149, the park was reopened to the public the following year and a few years
later renamed.

The zoo is with its large array of different species, some of which are unique to China, is a place that I understand
many adults, usually accompanied by children, go to visit. So yet again, I was as a much of a curiosity both
to human and animals alike, as were the creatures themselves! I must admit that I was luckily not captured and
placed in one of the vacant cages!

In all seriousness, if you ever have the time, I highly recommend a visit to the zoo in any land, not only China.
Zoos give a wonderful insight to a nations' values. Animals are given as gifts to other counterparts worldwide, in the
name of peace and public relations. Even Theodore Roosevelt himself was given a stuffed bear by an Indian
Chief in recognition of his valor, subsequently all our 'adored' furry friends are called teddies!

Entrance to the zoo in some countries is costly, but not here, it is only 10 yuan for the zoo itself and 5 for the
Panda pavillion. The gateway itself is impressive and stands out pointedly against the backdrop of the surrounding
district. This area famous for its cheap clothing markets, is alive with a hustle and bustle of passers by, but more
strangely is the fact that no sounds of the animals themselves can be heard from the street.

On entering and after purchasing my 2 yuan map, though not necessary as all is adequately sign posted, I made a beeline for the Pandas. Producing my ticket, I took a few moments to gather my thoughts before entry. As in any
well placed, popular sideshow, one is first greeted by stalls selling every size and style of panda, or adorable panda
wares. Restraining myself, I tried to stand appropriately in line to see these black and white furry shapes. There
was one particular window that seemed to be the focal point of everyones attention and I soon understood why. For
there with his black nose and paws pressed up against the glass, was one of the larger Pandas staring out at one
and all, just as they were gazing back at him.

Cameras flashing (not clicking as all appears to be digital and quiet nowadays), telephones held high and clicking,
the giant model was the centre of attention. Other 'rock mates' were lounging around either nibbling on bamboo
shoots or lazing back against the rocks, their feet held out in front of them as if waiting for their daily foot massage.
Adorable and sweet, I reluctantly left them to make room for others.

dark roots at the hairline!!

Firstly thank all you readers again for your positve comments and encouragement. Welcome too to Chinese
Readers who have now joined the ranks and are clicking 'in' to my news and views. Special thanks to one of
my students who has kindly shown me how to link myself on to view my blog and hopefully from now on, as I
now be able to edit, there will be no further 'typos'. As to the promised uploading of photographs, be patient,
they will soon follow.

As I have already mentioned in the past, it is not only the way that we look at the Chinese, but the way that they
look at us in return. As an EFL (english as a foreign language teacher) of some years, I am quite used to the
being asked strange or unexpected questions. More often than not, I find it incredulous the questions that I am
asked as to the form and structure of the english language. I personally agree that some of the grammar in the
anglo-saxon tongue sounds as if it was constructed by a Viking, but nevertheless the thought process and time
and energy that is put into some of these questions, often leaves me astounded!

So, back to my point. Here I am pointing out the idiosyncrsies that I see or come across daily, but the curiosity of
the Chinese and there clear unabashfullness to ask personal or pointed questions, sometimes leaves me sitting
(usually, as I am teaching) with a surprised look in my eye, as well as a red face!! Of course always priding myself
on being open and honest, almost unshockable, from the point of being able to hold a discussion on any subject,
I was caught off guard at a recent lesson, when a student asked me pointedly why the roots of my hair were a
darket color than the rest of my blonde locks!!

Now, I ask you, how would you have reacted to such a question. Please let me firstly set you the picture. It was
during the lesson break of a two and a quarter hour lesson, my class of five, three male and two females had gone
off either to get a drink or take a breather. I was sitting in the room alone with two of the pupils, (all are adults over
the age of 28) a male and female, when the latter faced me and asked this question point blank. To make sure that
I understood her question, she repeated it to her colleague in Chinese, who then resaid it in another form of English.
The meaning though of course, being the same.

Blustering, I am sure, I tried one tactic unsuccessfully and then another, Before I enlighten you with my reply, salt
was further added to the wound, when having completed my explanation, the rest of the class returned, only to have
the question repeated by another in the name of the first student. To which I replied in haste, that I had already
explained the answer to the enquiry and we should continue. Talk about embarrassment!

So for all you hair dyers, male and female (that may even include feline considering the state of the 'toy' pets here),
beware before you board the plane for the Olympic circuit or vacation, as you pass your camera to a citizen, as they
are their eye is pressed to the lens, they are not wondering if they have you in the correct frame, but whether you
dye your hair or not!!!!

(You didn't really think that I would tell you what I said, did you? Some secrets should remain that way; but I
guarantee that I will be more heedful of my roots from now on!).

Squashed and trampled

I wonder how it will be during the Olympics here in Beijing. Citizens are always complaining that the streets are overcrowded, but with half a million expected in August, plus under few hundred thousand visitors, I am sure that they do not know what is coming!

Cars are going to be regulated to even and odd numbers on alternate days. Industrial pollution
is going to cease from the end of June for two months, as to clear the atmosphere, but nothing as
of yet has been said about a ban on smoking, which in itself works up an industry of its own!

Appartments will be rented out, not only by the Chinese, but the ex-pats are also jumping in on the chance to make a few bucks and maybe they have the right idea, to go somewhere peaceful, sunny and under populated or invaded.

Trying to get on the bus on Monday, I found myself totally lifted off the ground in the throes
of would be passengers, I guarantee no easy feat, but then hurled to the ground and almost trampled on as those around me made their mad scramble for the seats available. It was only when one burly gentleman grabbed my arm and gave me a lift up, plus an allocated seat, that I realised that if this is what happens now, what will be then!?

Hotel prices are rising too, so I would be sure to get in your early booking and confirmation, with even an insurance guarantee that this particular accomodation and price will be held at the time of visit. It is only understandable that all will be competitive as wages are low and the chance to earn high.

I personally intend to have done all my touristy site visiting and Olympic purchasing of memorabilia, well before the appointed dates. You too?

Four eyes

Firstly may I apologise to all loyal readers, for not having posted any pictures yet. They have been taken in abundance, but my poor overloaded computer is playing up and rejecting further
software, so as and when I am able to solve this difficulty, you will enjoy the sights that I see.

On my travels, I have become fascinated and delighted both at the same time, at the unusual eye gear I have seen people sporting. It is lovely to see, how this city is split into two if not three types of dress. The conservative/traditional versus the more modern. I am accustomed to a more modern hairstyle, whether it be shaggy, spikes or even colored (no blonde though), but the range of modern glasses is quite daring and remarkable. From stripes, shapes, bold colors and the regular, it takes the brave to sport such eye wear and when I do see them, I signal my approval either with a smile, hand gesture or words.

On the other hand, for a people that love their dogs, they also have no guilt about wearing an
animal around their collar of their winter coat, or on a full version. Whereas the rest of the world steers away from being seen in these furry beasts, here no one bats an eye or throws a bad word or worse. Strange.

They're back!!

As I am sure any a Jerusalemite can testify, roadworks on a street can cause quite a disruption. I am not talking about the ones that are usually carried out on the main roads themselves, but the more annoying ones that seem to spill over onto the pavement, making a pedestrians life an
impossibility!

For those of you not of Jerusalem (Israel), let me set you a scene. In the city centre there is an extremely popular food market that joins the main street to the city centre, for a few years now,
the municipality has been preparing a 'light railway' (something like a tram/underground train)
that is supposed to, when it is finally finished, release some of the traffic congestion in the city.
But, it seemed that every time they put up a sign, 'thank you very much for your patience and assistance', there was another sign up the next day, in a not to far away spot, again requesting same patience and assistance as they disturbed the 'walkers' freedom once again with the next bit!!!

This morning on my daily jaunt to the bus stop, I was reminded of the same happening here.
The day before last, I was forced, to the dismay of all bicyclists, into the designed bike path, as construction had been erected on the pavement in my path. Narrowly missing being flattened, I kept myself almost plastered to the parked cars, only to find this morning, that the last remaining piece of sidewalk had now too been boarded up with colorful sheeting and scaffolding as they are building god knows what in my path!

I am all for progress, but sometimes it can be a little annoying. Pity the poor fellow who was
riding a wheelbarrow contraption tied to his bike, filled to the brim with freshly laid eggs (they still had feathers on them) as he had to skid in order not to trample me underfoot!! I tried in vain to explain that it was not my doing, but all he did was shake a fist. Really, believe me you can't miss me in my yellow coat and hair, I look like a monster chick!!

Overflow of Toy dogs!

I always believed that I was good with animals and children, but walking down the streets of Beijing I have begun to doubt my worth! I am not sure if it is my boots that seem to attract these small felines attention, but I seem to be creating a stir wherever I go. Admittedly I have
been unable to work out if these small animals are just trying to protect their owners, more often than not, of an elderly age - mind you there is the gentleman at the kiosk that sports a wig as opposed to toupee, whose young friend seems hell bent on driving my custom away!

These little dogs, if one deems to calls them as such, are what we would consider in the rest of the world as a 'toy dog' and certainly a luxury. It is interesting therefore, that here in a country
where wages are so low, these dogs are in abundance. Is it because their owners appartments have limited space? I have so far to date not seen one of these doggies being carried, unlike the pictures we all know of so well, of Paris Hilton and her little friends; or are they trying to be more aristocratic, the Queen herself owns a large amount of Corgies.

The assortment seems to know no end, some of which I do not even know the name of the breed, but can describe them. There is the minature poodle, pure breed costing 2.500nis (around 138 pounds or $350) but mongrels of course a good deal less. There are countless
Pekinese, Pugs and some kind of small hairballs with or without hair on their actual bodies (quite ugly I must say, I have even seen a Sheltie.

I have been given to believe that there are larger breeds around other provinces including the
St. Bernard, which I can quite appreciate given the amount of snow that falls here. These animals are so loved, that last week a woman was photographed crying on the street, begging for help from passers by, to find her lost pup - with no reward offered. It is reported that she did find her lost pal in a neighboring building.

It is strange then to me that in the local Korean restaurant, dog meat is on the menu, but will explain why you rarely see these toys out on the street without a leash and certainly not roaming around freely. My only complaint about them is that when they 'yap' at me, they do so so noisily, that all (which is a lotof people) turn around to look!!

A ripe old age

Getting old gracefully today is much easier than it was once upon a time for the middle to upper classes. We are taught to exercise regularly, eat a better diet, smoke less, have plastic surgery to look younger, liposuction, take care of our teeth and of course dont forget, 'travel improves the mind'.

But for the rest, who are unable to live up to this lifestyle, luxuries or even basic commodoties can prove to be a struggle. The elderly (not a term commonly used today, as a 80 year old can appear more sprightly than his younger counterpart) also have to face the added fear, that should they have property or money saved, their offsprings may wish to discuss at length who will get what and so put a strain on their relationship in order to make sure that they receive the correct amount.

It is both sad and the norma that this has become our way. I am the last to judge and am not talking about any specific event, person or place, but trying to draw attention to what I have learnt about the people here.

Old age, for all irrelevant of social status, is something that is looked forward to. I should correct myself and say retirement, for these people feel and many of them have, that they have had a hard and difficult life, so stopping to work is greeted with enthusiasm. Activities are planned well in advance, just as our youngsters do with their after school curriculum.

English is learnt, dance rehearsals are attended, poetry is read and plays are watched performed by fellow free-timers. At a visit to a historical site, I was charmed by two musicians, both elderly, almost toothless, with assorted garments, that sat on a wall and serenaded me on a fiddle and mini accordion, to the sound of their english repitoire. Delighted, when i tried to tip
them for their effort, was refused.

At the Spring Festival, it is custom to give red envelopes filled with money, both to the young and old, but it is also customary for young people, today of a one child family, to constantly help their elderly parents with money, food and clothing.

When I read recently that the allowance for the pensioners is around 750 yuan, which is
1,500 nis, between $ 300 - 400 and just over 200 pounds. When I asked if this was enough
for them to live on for a month, I was assured that it was, as they earned extra monies by growing and selling veggies, kids support and most own their own homes, or have one paid for
by their children.

More often than not, the couple will be involved in taking care of the grandchild, fetching or taking them from school or activities such as English classes (where they sit outside the door or in the waiting room for up to 3 hours), or just generally at home with the baby.

The children in turn grow up extremely close to their grandmother or grandfather and a bond is formed that is closer than to the parents themselves at times. Watching a national geographic
programme on a tribe in Africa, I learnt that there the parents never ever speak to their first born child, but this child in turn is taken in by the whole community and showered with attention and love.

We criticise these people here in China, but we know again that none of us has a perfect country or government either, but as to the old, they are smiling, holding hands and enjoying their old age with respect and peace, that is given to them freely and without question by the children.
Are we missing something here?

A child's point of view

As I look around china, at their different culture, I stop to think what are they and the west
creating in our children's future. I am not talking here about war or politics, but of a more
fundamental issue.

We are so advanced and busy in creating our new technologies, that maybe at times we should stop to think that our children still need to learn the art of social, verbal and written skills. As we place our kids on a computer keyboard at a younger and younger age, we forget to pay attention
to the art of reading and writing. Here in China, the word dyslexia is not used. When I mentioned to people that when I take a taxi I have seen and understood, that some of the older
drivers are illiterate. I know this to be true by the way that they inspect the card or writtten
paper that I give them displaying the address that I wish to travel to.

Children here in Beijing, of a middle class, white collar family, are provided with extra english lessons either at kindergarden or an extra curriculum activity at the weekend or privately after
school. As the youngsters of age 10 progress in their talking skills, they are taught the language
mathematically, through memorising certain words, but are unable to read more than a three
letter word, so when the words are long, they mumble so that the teacher does not notice their
inability to read properly.

The children emerge from their protected cocoon at the age of 2 and even though we associate china with slimness, I am amazed to see a percentage of these litttle kids, being quite overweight. I am not talking about chubbiness, but heaviness. I realise that our picture of the Asian race being small, is not true today, as children grow taller than their parents and eat a
different balanced diet as to the traditional rice or noodles.

The babies that stay home, will be fed well, but not exercised, as the playgrounds that I have passed, remain empty in the mornings. In my class of little children last week, two little boys almost attacked me in their fight to get the packed of biscuits I had brought with me as a bribe!!

Also, the amount of McDonalds and Kentucky fried chicken outlets, may be delicious, but will and have already changed the chinese eating habits and in turn their bodily appearance.

'Time Warp'

I have had so many comments about my blog on the babies of China not wearing nappies, that I wish to comment on some of them.

Teaching in China, is very different from teaching in Israel.
For a start, here there is no common language, for even if I will in time be able to learn some chinese, that at present sounds like 'double dutch', it will be very difficult to hold a long and natural conversation in it. The language is as complex as the people and because they are so
curious about me and the west, has led to many a discussion on my observations.

I am unable to access my writings here in Beijing, whether it is due to censorship or just the way
some companies block certain sites; I can write freely, but am unable to edit and once posted, it has gone. As my students are so curious to see what I have written, one of their homework assignments is to find me a way in!!

Having told them of my shock and dismay at seeing a baby in public with all his private parts hanging out for all to see, has left them a) in wonder at my astonishment b) looking at this
habitual chinese act in a new light c) commenting about their views on the westerners behaviour.

For the first time last night, upon taking a taxi, I was met with a driver who did not have the
right change to give me. Even though I had heard of this occurence, it had not as of yet, happened to me. It is irrelevant that it was for only 1 yuan, it was the principle that dismayed me! I can count on two hands how many people I have seen that actually still spit on the road
freely, so as to be confronted with proof that taxi drivers do not give change, was my first
disappointment.

One of my students pointed out that as I was a liberal minded woman, it confused him as to
why I found it distressing to see babies with no nappies. I replied by telling him that it had at times been pointed out to me in my life that for all my tolerance, in some things I had traditional ideas. This answer seemed to satisfy him temporarily, for the following week, he in turn told me that chinese travellers are shocked and taken aback by the women's style of dress in the west, which they consider to be not almost naked, but naked!!

On discussion as to how the children in the west are allowed to go out dressed like that, I very diplomatically explained that today it is a case more of protesting and advising, as opposed to laying down the law. Saying that, on teaching young children over the Chinese New Year, I have gotten to know the disciplinary habits of the parents better. Controlling the class is not the problem, as maybe being a more mature teacher, I am better able to keep order. Saying that, after a month with one class, they suddenly became freer in their behaviour and to the point of rudeness in their gestures.

During one prancing, dancing around session to the tune of the 'Hokey Pokey' (an old english
dance) the children started to squat down as if in a position of going to the toilet to relieve themselves. When I told them to stop, I was not only ignored, but I could see their lack of comprehension as to why this was wrong. Afterwards the parents outside asked me what the children had done to offend me and upon explanation, could not understand my annoyance.
This is because here children will relieve themselves at a young age in any corner if there are
no toilets available, whereas in the west, even if we had to let our children do that, we would find a tree, or hedge for more privacy.

I have decided that for all my smiling face, these young parents are unacustomed to meeting a
more convential children's teacher. After having a young mother stand outside my classroom talking through the door to her son, for forty minutes, I came out and told her that he is either in
or out, but she is not to stand there any longer. She moved away and waited for her son to come to claim her, as opposed to the other way round at the end of the lesson. This week, to my
astonishment, she brought him to the door, disappeared and peace reigned in the classroom!!
At the end I made a point of singling her out for praise - she just kept smiling and bowing to me in reverence. No one could believe that I had succeeded with this parent and I became quite the heroine. (I always say that after the age of 45 you can say what you want).

In the name of religion

'What people do in the name of religion' has been a popular phrase of mine for many years. When I worked as a tour guide, I would often say that to my visitors, usually pilgrims, as we worked our way through all the holy sites.

During the Spring Festival, the Chinese New Year, that heralds in the almond blossom and the first signs of the changing season, I took the opportunity to visit a couple of the famous landmarks. Not wishing to go in the colder months to the Forbidden City, I settled for the Temple of Heaven and the
Lama temple, otherwise known as the Yonghegong.

Built in 1694, it was created for political reasons, as the founder, the head Lama, was the leader of the yellow sect and Tibetan. Like all clever rulers, the Emperor thought that this move would give him a greater hold over the Mongolians too. This was also a benevolent move, as strong yellow was also the imperial color at that time.

Going into the temple through the main entrance, you have to pass a large number of shops, all selling the same thing, that is incense!! Wondering why there were all there and how they could all possibly make a living, I was soon to discover the answer.

The beautiful gateway in the traditional chinese style of a mixture of blues and reds, with a dash of white, greets you as you enter. The pavilions down the centre, 5 in all house the more impressive Budhas, Gods and treasures, but it was the ones lining the sides that caught my attention, as it was here that the Lama would go to study medicine, astromony and mathematics. His books were not of the traditional kind, bu long and narrow manuscripts, piled high in show cases and his astronomical equipment lying leisurely behind. I found in interesting and even inspiring that for each of the subjects that he chose to study, were kept in separate chambers, as if not to allow for an overflow of thought between them, but instead to use his full intellect and attention for the one chosen that particular day.

The temple area was full of visitors, carrying plastic bags full of boxes of incense in all color varieties and size. There were praying stools and incense burners available for use and people stood quietly in line whilst others would rock, sway or just quietly pray. Unlike other religions, where most sing out loud, here the prayers are conducted quietly, with three incense sticks clasped between their palms. Three for each post of prayer and after seeing how many statues and Gods their were there, I understood the need for so many purchases, as it would be wrong to favour one God more than the other.

Prayer wheels are for turning with the flat part of your palm, to the right only, as to the left would not allow for your wish to come true. In the fourth pavillion, the Hall of Budhist Scripture and Learning, the large golden statue of Zongleba is quite impressive. Not the largest statue by far in China, but impressive with its rows of seats and lamps spread out in front of it, for official learning periods.

After leaving the golden Budha, I entered the final and last hall. It was hear that I can only describe my emotions as being left speechless and tears formed in my eyes. I do not want you to mistake these feelings as one of worship, but more that of wonder, for here before my eyes, was not the most beautiful thing that I have ever seen, but the most impressive.

Before you read on, think of the pyramids of Egypt, the great stone slabs of the Temple, the tall austere flints of Stonehenge and with that in mind, continue.

Here before my eyes, made of one solid piece of wood, taken from the Tibetan hills, stands the statue of Maitrerya. It stands erect at 18 meters high, with another 6 meters below the ground.
This magnificent artistic piece was carved out from one piece, much the same as Michaelangelo's
David, that being of Marble and awe inspiring in another way. This statue, blew my mind, becasue it made me think of what a person will do in the name of their religion.

Unanswered questions: Did they go hunting for such a tall tree in the forest? Did they have in mind from the start the size they were looking for? Did they have a plan of how to move it across country at a time of no modern transport? How did they erect it? How did they carve it? How did they reach its height?

To each of these questions I have no answer, but can only stop and continue to wonder.
It was a beautiful experience that will stay with me for a long time.

The Olympiada mania

Are the Olympics coming to Beijing? I have often felt in the last number of weeks that I have been here that the general population is totally unaware of what is coming.

In every class that I teach, my students that have more than a smattering of the language (English) they are so blase about the forthcoming event. The most important point is to be able to get a ticket and the ticketing opportunity will be by ballot for the last time in April.

Having been in Paris 10 odd years ago, when the late Pope came to visit, I have first hand experience of how 'choca bloc' a city can be. The Chinese government is not expecting so many people from the west, but from other provinces in China, August will become in Beijing like it was in other parts of China during the Spring festival.

I am encouraging my students to become excited, to be enthusiastic about their forthcoming sport events and be willing to go out on the streets, as opposed to sitting at home and watch the erected gigantic television screens. I personally will be there sitting on the street, munching my popcorn and sipping my water; when they hear me say this, they stop to think. I tell them
that if they want the opinion of the west to change towards them, they have to go out and be their own advocates!

Feelings about Spielberg run high, from disappointment to anger - none believe that it was his place to turn the opening into a political platform and has another reason for leaving. I personally feel a great excitement to be here at this time, to see, meet and be part of this
great metamorphis that is coming to this land.

Upon asking some of my students if they celebrated Valentines day, I was told that 'it's not my holiday', that caused me to be amused, as in Israel that is a common comment before January 1, when I am told the same words. I have found the youngsters to be openly affectionate on the buses or on the street, hugging, kissing and snuggling up to each other. Seeing couples hand in hand walking down the street, or on February 14 arms laden with flowers, shows that they are
just like any young lovers world wide.

Another thing that is like the middle east, is that the Chinese are very supersticious. It is common to see children with a red thin string around their necks, from which hangs an amulet of some kind or a red string on their wrist or finger for the same purpose.

It just goes to confirm my belief, that people are generally the same the world over, with common emotions, way of religion and codes of behaviour. When mentioning to my pupils my discomfort with the lack of nappies or nappy linings that babies have, they in turn looked at me in confusion and disbelief that this fact should in any way disturb me and still kept to their belief that nappies are unhealthy for the childs bowels and development!!

Unusal street vendors

Well, we are all too familiar with the street vendors in our own countries. The hot dog stands of new york, or the ice cream carts. In England the hot chesnuts in the winter months and the ice cream van. In Israel the hot corn street seller or the hole in the wall falafel stand. We have all travelled and tasted the delights.

Here in China it is a little different. I am not talking about the food market, those are not so common in Beijing, as they are today enclosed in buildings and not open on the street. We have all been to food markets in other places; the food markets of Israel, the fish in Holland, the wine and stuffed olives and tomatos of Vienna and many others.

Here, the small stand with umbrella attached, more for a decoration than to keep off the sun or rain, are attached again to a bicycle. Their wares are steamy hot, as the Chinese like to eat their dumplings hot and their porridge too. Even milk sold in cans or packets is warmed. Behind the stand, there is another bicycle plus a small steel cabinet, that seems to be used to keep extra supplies.

A glass cabinet is attached (again to a bicycle, no wheelbarrows here) and sells either skinny hot dogs, dumplings or fruit coated something like a toffee apple. I have not yet worked out if they
have to be licensed or are able to set up shop wherever they please, but you certainly have to speak Chinese here to be able to be a street vendor.

Chinese kiosks that can be found on strategic corners, selling every version of english magazine, but in chinese. Comics and daily newspapers are sold way into the night, unlike in Israel where
we have kiosks lining Tel Aviv selling sandwiches, I must admit I do miss those things.

It is such a contrast of lifestyle that the Chinese smoke in every public place, throw their cigarette butts freely and spit on the road, but road sweepers are in abundance here and have
little flexible shovels and brooms, plus masks over their mouths, constantly sweeping and cleaning the streets. In a mall is a big neon sign outside saying: 'No spitting, running, shouting, pushing ....'.

Another thing that is strange here is that you do not see any policemen, even traffic ones.
All the security guards and car park attendants are dressed like soldiers or officials, but keep only to their particular jobs and do not interfere with anything outside their duties.

Lastly, people here may be poor, but they do not appear to sleep on the streets and it is rare
and far between to see such a happening or even street beggars are scarce too.

all or nothing on a bike

So, continuing about the two-wheelers or in some cases the three wheelers, riding a bike is
definitely an art form in China. Used to seeing the shiny, ultra up-to-date form of transport back home, it is fasciinating to see a completely different style here. We in the west are more used to seeing children of a young age strapped in to safer bike seats, attached to the back of the bike, with the children strapped in. Here it is rare to see such a contraption, possibly because the children themselves generally do not leave home until they are at least the age of two.

So here, it is the norma and common, to see a child or adult, sitting on the front bar of the bike or on the back steel place usually kept for a bag or basket, legs outstretched or tucked under, riding side-saddle (but without the equipment). They do not hold on tightly, but seem to look very relaxed, carefree and confident. Is balance something that is inbred in the Asians, or something that one learns in this country, at an early age? Some of these bikes are motorised, almost like a moped, but a more homemade version.

As to the rest, well, there are tricycles with passenger seats in the bag and I have seen many a sprightly elder gentleman, wheeling his wife around, without even a huff or puff. The pedicab drivers seem to have unlimited stregnth, as they take one or two people in their small carriage for a minimum fare, unlike the carriages of Vienna, where the horses do all the work.

Other bicycles have wagons or trolleys attached to the back, with two - four wheels, depending on what is being laden thereon. Again, we in the convential west will see a water bottle truck delivering heavy, swollen, plastic bottles of mineral water, but here, yet again, it is unique!
A wagon will be laden with 10 of these heavy barrels, surrounded and secured with a rope or strong string and the delivery person will stop and unload, untie and retie accordingly. now you may well ask, how does he stop theft? Well, it appears that these wagons though old in appearance, have been fitted with the most up-to-date security equipment - a burglar alarm!
(I haven't yet fathomed if this is supposed to be a deterent or is really necessary, as the streets are so crowded, it would be impossible to run off laden with such a thing).

Besides the water bottles, i must clearly add, that everything is laden onto these wagons, be it
building materials, windows, wood - you think of it and I can guarantee that I have seen it, sometimes with children piled high on the material to make sure it doesn't slip off). The point is who needs a gym with such skills!

Bicycle Mania

Living in an area of Beijing that is mainly Chinese, it seems that daily something else catches my eye. On my daily jaunt to work, I spot the strangest assortment of vehicles.

I am sure that if I travelled to other places in Asia, or even India, I would probably see more interesting modes of transport, but at present it is here in China that I have become fascinated with.

Driving in Beijing is known to be dangerous, as even though the driver pays attention to the traffic lights, they have right turns that give no indication that they are in use. In other countries, markings on the road, or an arrow, traffic light will indicate that this is the right of way. Here you have to be almost killed before you get the ins and outs of the traffic regulations. It is no wonder that then for a foreigner a written test is all that is required to be able to drive, because they are afraid that the harrowing experience may result in a lawsuit!

But, as i have written earlier, being run over or nearly so, by a bicycle is the most hilarious and dangerous thing - not only can you topple the rider, but you yourself will find you tumbling over and sprawled all over the street with the offender shrieking at you in Chinese. (Luckily this has of yet
not happened to me, but I have witnessed such an event).

So, as I am walking to the bus stop, the amount of bicycles of all assortments meet my eye.
On exiting my compoud, I see the reguar bicycle 'fixer' sitting on the side of the road, with a box
that would normally be used for electricity open and inside his display of tools and wares. These consist of tires, baskets, pumps and bells for sale, plus whatever it is that he needs to use for repair. The assortment of customers ranges from the pedicab, milk cart, housewife and tricycle that are turned upside down and a long chatty conversation takes place as the repair is carried out. It is both social, commercial as well as a practical way to make a living.

On the street itself, the pedicabs range from the deluxe, to the covered in canvas or material for protection, to the completely enclosed in aluminium or fibre glass, for protection against the cold.
These more often than not can be seen outside foreign workplaces at the end of the day, trying to pick up a fare. I myself have not tried one yet as i am waiting for warmer days.

Bikes are a variation from very old and decrepit to the shiny new. It is not surprise that the newer
versions are the ones that one sees less, as theft is rife so people prefer to keep the old serviceable models that do not attract attention.

More, a little later....

Standing out in Beijing

My usual comment to people who talk about beauty or weight, or question as to why I am wearing a particular shade of nail varnish or shoe attire, or say 'I recognized you by your hair', has always inspired from me the comment:

'There are those who are born with long legs and height
There are those who are born with long hair or beauty
And as for the rest of us, we have to work at it!!'

It seems to me that after 5 weeks in China, I should have become a familiar sighting to those
that I pass on my regular route. I do appreciate the fact that in a city of around 14+ million (give or take, there are discrepancies about the actual amount), it is hard to say that you pass the same people every day. But, nevertheless, it seems that every morning - somehow more than
the evenings, I feel their shocked gazes. They literally stand on the street and gawp and gape.
This is probably due to the fact that by evening all my make up has been rubbed off, I am looking a little worse for wear and my energy sparkle is diminishing.

I mention my energy, because that also seems to be another topic of conversation.
It seems that anyone here with more than the recquired level should look like an Amazon and
of course at 159 (+ or -) it seems impossible. As to my hair - well anyone who knows me will tell you that it has a life of its own. It never seems to grow and when it does, it grows outwards and not in the convential downward manner that hair is supposed to do.

As to wearing tights, now that I have become accustomed to the climate, they have beat the dust and are only given an airing when the level has fallen below -5. My jacket, bright yellow, unusual
here, as it seems that yellow was the imperial color for many years, so is not commonly worn, can be seen from afar (it matches my hair) and having no language skills in Chinese as of yet, I am unable to explain that this particular garment was only bought before a trip to Poland, when it fell to the unbelievable sum of 50nis ($12, 6.50 ( pounds)). On top of this I have my beige fur topped boots that I got in Hungary, that they probably get mistaken for a dog hanging around my feet. If it is not any of the above, then it will be my plastic earings bought for almost nothing in my usual cheapy haunts or my handwoven Bedouin bag slung around my frame, bought as a
christmas pressie from a friend. If it is not one, then it is the other.

I personally think it is much more fun to look at a 'roller blader' gracefully weaving his way down the street in the traffic (not a Chinaman) or look at the attire worn by the young women or men.
They are very 'with it' and spend a lot of money on their clothes. When I asked one such person where she had bought her top and how much it cost, I was startled at the price.

For people on a low income in our eyes, their values are no different to others in the west. They want to have the most up to date phones, the highest heels, the trendiest clothes (under their padded coats) and if they are the ultimate in daring - the spiky, layered or henna dyed hair!

And they say that I stand out.

Coffee

Here in China, there are as many coffee shops as I have seen both in Israel and London.
Every second corner has a Starbucks or SPR coffee shop, besides the bakeries and patisseries
that are scattered inbetween too.

Yesterday in the 7 - 11 store, as I was purchasing my daily soup, they persuaded me to buy
something that resembled caramel pudding. Well, I have to say, creme boulee move over!!
This little pot costs under a $1, or 3.5nis or around 8Op (UK) and was delicious (of course
fattening, that goes without saying)!

The chinese people have a sweet tooth, so for all of you who are worried that you will not find your favorite chocs, that may be, but there are plenty of other local goodies to sustain you.

What amazes me is how we always presume in the west, that the chinese eat rice and not sweeties, but the rice is more Thai or from the south and goodies are in abundance. In the
supermarket all the cakes and biscuits are sold in plastic containers, like we would expect to find in a mix sweet counter and can be taken out with tongs and then weighed. The choice of swiss roll, biscuits of every kind, madeira cakes, chocolote squares are in abundance, even a very
delicious cheese cake that is sold in slices for around a $1!!

It was strange to read an article in the local paper talking about Starbucks in America having
to close a 100 of its stores, but here in Chinaland a new one seems to be sprouting every week
(let us remember though, that they were not successful in Israel) - so here is what I say to
Aroma or Hillel or any other of the Israeli brands - move to China! There are plenty of chinese,
plenty of ex pats and plenty a sweet taste!

As for myself, I can only say that I have not succumbed to the smell of their coffee and have as of yet, tasted only one of their muffins (it was the cheapest thing on the menu) and due to its size was unable to finish it.

As for restaurants, I think a Houmous bar should be opened here, the chinese love to eat and taste on a regular basis all kinds of cuisine, they even eat bread in abundance, as well as with
chop sticks or their fingers. They are used to sharing, but are not great in the salad department, in that quarter they have what to learn as it is all thrown into hot water (hot pot), but have all requested that I somehow manouver for them a taste of this mysterious delicacy.

Anyone offering to bring me some? I must admit I miss it too, but of course dont forget the pitta.

Fair time

Today I was taken to one of the fairs that was being held in Beijing. These fairs are held at selected parks in the city and are large urban areas where sacrifices would have once been given.
Travelling their by taxi, it was a short distance from where I work, between the second and third ring. known as 'Ditan Park'.

The first thing that met my eyes was the throngs of people going in and out in an orderly fashion.
Each individual had a beaming smile on their face and was laden with an assortment of material fishes on rods, multi windmills blowing on long wooden sticks, stuffed animals of all shapes and sizes and an assortment of headgear that reminded me of a carnival in Europe or the Jewish holiday in Israel called 'Purim'. The younger members wore hairbands with neon lights of stars, hearts or devil ears - mickey mouse, elephant and the year of the rat fur hats were also the mode.

Amazingly, no one was pushing, shoving or shouting, there was a quiet atmosphere of laughter and merriment. One pays a small fee to enter, around 12.50nis or just under 2 pounds or $3.
The first pathway is lined with stalls selling all kinds of treasures, from gifts to wigs to ornaments.

The first being likened to an avenue, has smaller and wider paths, that I shall liken to streets going off of it, where the fair ground stalls are erected. Here one has to buy tokens at a minimum cost, to be able to play on the activities. Discs needed are on average 5, that comes to just under a pound, just over a dollar and 5nis. There is shooting, basketball, throw the hoop (always impossible to cover the post), hit the balls in the bucket and others..... There is more than adequate chance of winning delightful large stuffed toys, as well as compensation small ones.

Being escorted by a friends daughter and boyfriend ( the latter who did not speak any english), we had a 'ball'. It was the greatest fun and we walked around laden with our winnings. Food stalls are set in a seperate area, both for buying home made cheese, or tasting some of the local delicacies. Cotton Candy, honeyed fruit, kebabs, some sticky chewy substance (cant tell you what it was, but I did not deem to try!) were just a small amount of what was being offered.

We were lucky enough to even see a 'lion dance' often mistaken for a dragon dance that really
made it a complete festival. As the afternoon was drawing to a close, our feet weary and tired, we made our way home. I can only recommend such a happening. Even though the city itself is quiet, it is a perfect time to visit. The traffic is light, the festivities strong in color and spirit.

Again here, no drunkeness, pushing or shoving, no vandalism or fear of theft or stabbing, a simple people enjoying holiday festivities at an affordable price. It was truly a delightful afternoon, but as always, no babies in sight and for once I could understand these people, with a city of 16,000,000 it was not a place for little children, for certainly at least a large portion of them were here enjoying!

new year celebrations

I am non stop asked what is my opinion of the Chinese, whoever or whenever I meet a member of this race, this is inevitably one of the questions that come up in conversation. I am not sure yet as to why they ask; is it for a need to see themselves through the eyes of the west? Approval or just curiosity.

Answering has not proven to be a difficulty, for I really have so far, enjoyed my interactions with them. Are they different to others in the world? Well, I find them charming in their innocence, not aggressive. They do stare a lot, but after having lived in Israel for many years, you get used to being stared at and I am able to ignore it. Another thing they do is chatter away to you at top speed and even if you have a smattering of the language, it is impossible to follow.

But and here I stress the but, I can guarantee that with a little bit of effort, sign, body and grunting sounds make a language and you are able to understand each other quite well!!
I was accused of yesterday, was that I still have the 'China' fascination, that I am still enamoured and enthusiastic about the people and life here. I totally disagree with that observation, because I feel this is why we travel, to take in and enjoy new things.

So, on the Chinese New year, that began last Wednesday night, the sound of the fireworks and firecrackers soon lit up the sky as well as pierced your eardrums!! Walking along the street at around 8.OO pm when it all first began, I was fascinated to see the sky being set alight with a
mixture of green, pink and white sparks. I found myself stopping and gazing up as they seem to appear spontaneously all over my head. All too soon, my excitement turned to a light fear, as I could hear the sound of the rockets rising by their wheeze and then silence as they burst open and fell rapidly to the ground. After a couple of near misses, I decided it would be safer to go indoors and beat a dignified retreat into my home.

I was not at all sure at first if this was the right decision, because it seemed to me that my whole
building was exploding from the sounds outside. Running to the utility room window I gazed agog at the sight before my eyes. People were running along the road, pulling a line of fire crackers behind them - irregardless of their safety! Fireworks were being let off at random on sandy ground, or in tin bins right next to parked cars. It was unimportant to anyone standing around if there was someone actually keeping an eye on these sparks, they appoared to be lit and left alone to their own devices.

Car alarms were ringing constantly as each new boom resounded in the night and sky was set
ablaze in colorful lights! This merriment seemed to go on for many hours and for the less brave of the parents, or more sensible, gigantic sparklers were placed in the hands of eager children, to be lit and twirled until they had lost their light.

Was it enjoyable? Yes, even beautiful. It was even more so by the fact that the merry makers were not drunk, or crashing around in the streets, they were not destroying property, just looking up at the sky in their thick winter coats, trying to ward off the cold night air.

As for myself, I was a little nostalgic, remembering Guy Fawkes nights of a bygone year, or sitting around bonfires on Lag Baomer day when my children were young (a night of festivity in Israel around late April, where bonfires are lit all over the country to commemorate a past miracle from the Temple period) being sent home to sit awake awaiting the dawn and their
safe arrival home after being able to stay up all night outside on their own. Now they are grown and here I find myself in Beijing, at the start of the weeks' festivities.

Babes-toddlers

Sitting on the bus last week, which is a bit of a feat on its own, as even though I get on at the first bus stop as my number 43 bus leaves the terminal, a mad scramble begins. Manouvering your
way between the barriers as to where is the ideal spot to stand, can be ruined by some other
brighter spark than you, who has now decided to stand in front of the barrier on the narrow kerb
ledge, so as to be the first for the 10 metre sprint to be the one to bag the seat on the bus!! You may well ask why I do not do the same, but not being as lightfooted as a gazelle, I choose to stand safely within the stampede, sharpening my elbows carefully each morning before I leave home, to be able to push myself effortlessly through the throng!

So, as I was sitting in one of my two favorite seats on the bus (these are singles just in front of the turntable accordion that connects the long buses) I noticed a child in front of me, dressed to the hilt as a michelin man, roughly at the age of 9 months sitting on his mother's lap. In China what I have noticed amongst the younger children, is that firstly you do not see any babe under the age of 6 months out on the streets and should you, they are usually being pushed in a stroller by an expat!! To this date, I have not seen any chinese person pushing a baby in a pushchair below the age of a year and that too being highly unusual.

I will stop a moment to add here, that on a recent trip to the Carrefour supermarket chain, at the checkout I was surprised to see a couple (of course plus grandmother) purchasing a simple stroller, only to understand too quickly that these people were in fact not Chinese, but Japenese!

As you go around the city, it is not common to see many young children out and about, as here the kindergarden for the very young will be staying at home with one of the grandparents, aunts or uncles etc.. As most young couples do not have children till they are in their mid thirties, due to the one child ruling and the need to build a career and save some money, the grandparents could well be at retirement age, so as to enable them to help the younger family.

The one child ruling is very difficult for some and an ideal solution for others. The downside of it is more for the children than the adults, as it puts enormous pressure on the child to succeed and allows them to become king of the roost.

As back to the bus, I was just glancing at the baby in arms, as I miss my little grand-daughter so much and remember when she was only a few weeks old, taking her in her carrier to the supermarket with me (never too young to shop for chocolate) when I noticed what appeared to be a toggle from his snow suit between his legs. To my utter amazement I realized that this was not in fact a piece from his garment, but his small penis hanging freely exposed between his legs!!

I was so shocked that this baby was wrapped up so well all over, but his bottom and private parts were exposed not only to fellow travellers, but also to the elements, that I mentioned it more than once to others to understand why this would occur and if I was right in not saying anything. Well. my astonishment was soon to become a mouth opening gape, as I was informed
that it is the norma for babies in China to go freely without a nappy, only wearing one maybe in the first weeks of their life, until they will eventually become toilet trained.

China worries incessantly at present as to what the west will say about them at the olympics, but what concerns me more is what visitors will think about the toilet habits here of this nation.
Children freely relieve themselves in public places, both boys and girls and I have been told that peeing on the bus by a young child is also common on the more local services (something I myself have not seen) plus in the supermarket. Going once to the public toilets and being shown the hole in the ground, this of course put me off for the rest of my stay. Probably more hygenic than a toilet seat, I am afraid that it is not for me.

The shocks though did not stop coming, as when I was teaching a young class of 3 - 5 year olds (english is begun at a very young age here, something that we could learn from) one mother knocked on the door, made her son stand up and pulled down his pants whilst she held a paper
cup in front of him for him to pee in.

I am not sure if this behaviour is left over from the middle ages, when to be the kings privy servant was considered a great honor and one held by either an aristocrat or clergy! These children are made to feel that they are the rulers of the house, which it appears to be so, with little discipline and lots of spoiling. To the latter, well I am guilty of the same, but to be told off when you do something wrong, should be done, with no physical punishment, just a look or tone of voice - but how that is possible when they are encouraged to pick their noses, go to the toilet where they please, not use a tissue to blow their noses, but have it blown for them - I dont know.

Going Green

There is so much talk of the pollution in China and I myself suffered greatly in the first week
that I was here, but nevertheless there seems to be such a controversy in the life style.
Cigarettes are smoked everywhere and in a changing world where smoking is being banned, it is quite startling at first to see that. Irrelevant if you are coming out or into a building, elevator,
bank, restaurant (if american style will have separate seating for smokers or non smokers), buses etc... smoking is freely done, with or without your permission.

But, on the other hand, you read in all the newspapers, that China is going 'green' - their 'water cube' the stadium built and recently opened for all swimming and water events, will collect over
10,000 cubic metres of rainwater each year and can reuse and recycle 80% of its water!

A new law is to be entrenched on its' population, of banning plastic bags. It is amazing that
China is soon to follow other countries such as Ireland, Russia, Uganda and South Africa in
putting a ban on the use of plastic bags being given at the check out, even Tibet has already
begun this new fashion. In the aforenamed countries, Tote bags are being sold with brightly
written logos of 'I am not a plastic bag!'. Why is China following suit? Well with a population
of 1.3billion, it takes around 5 million tons of oil to be able to manufacture a year enough
plastic bags for the nation. The chinese on the whole use 2 times more plastic bags than anywhere else in the world, using roughly 3 billion a day, as many as the whole of the US does in a year!

On the part of the Chinese Government, maybe this is a part of the pollution that they are
able to control and I for one, now have my 'green' shopping bag handy when I go out so as
not to use or be caught without a bag to bring home my wares! We are very critical of the
pollution here and rightly so, but this is a large step forward for this population.

Chinese dinner

Well, I was told tonight I was to be in for a treat. Being 'Spring Festival' I was invited to the
'Master's' house. The Master, was/is a martial arts teacher for many years, of Chinese Wrestling and is famous worldwide, with scores of students and even grand-students (children of past pupils) under his belt.

Taken into the heart of the older districts of Beijing, I was brought to the Master's home. Set in
an old courtyard complex, built around 1950, it is not one of the traditional courtyards but similar to any of those built in the 1930 - 50 both in Israel, England and Europe. Once a community complex, now more so each family to themselves. The appartments are not very
large and it is quite common for the landing to be used as an overflow for cupboard/closet or even a safe (extremely large) space. The furnishings are old fashioned, but the toilet modern, monies not being wasted on new fangled appliances or furniture. Everything is functional and simple.

Even though I know that there are many poor families and people living in China in very harsh
conditions, I did not find this house poor, to the contrary, I found it rich in values; the walls
decorated with Chinese proverbs and wishes, as well as a number of sepia pictures taken 50
or more years ago, set in another era. The master reminded me of the ultra orthodox jewish men, who when there is a Sabbath meal or festival, dress up in a special silk black coat, but when the meal is served, change to a more simple version. This is what the master did, he had been wearing a beautifully tailored royal blue brocade jacket and now changed into a more simple wrap over for the meal.

The meal set around a wooden table, was surrounded by upholstered chairs and a bed serving
as a bench. Small flowered bowls and long chop sticks were placed in front of us and an assort-ment of wine glasses. A bottle of red wine was produced and the red liquid poured freely into
our glasses. The table soon began to be laden with a wide assortment of dishes varying from
fish that was fried in rectangular pieces (much too bony for my taste) and a variety of vegetables
cooked in varying sauces; such as bean sprounts, egg plant, shredded potato and spring onions.

The delicacy of the meal was the large red radishes, that were to be dipped into a sweet stick
sauce and then munched enthusiastically. A large stew/soup was placed in the middle, which
contained large chunks of potato and meat. Each person helps themselves with their own chop sticks and the only serving spoon being for the stew. All eyes of course were on me and my ability to use the two sticks of woods, but after a month now in China, I am becoming a deft hand
at it. (The trick is to just take a look at what everyone else does and then to find your own
comfortable position of holding them).

A number of toasts are given, with everyone chinking their glasses, but they were delighted when I taught them the Hebrew word for 'cheers' which is 'L'Hayim' which means 'Life' and
kept repeating it delighting in its' sound and their ability to pronounce it. Rice was also offered,
whole bowlfuls of it being eaten as a desert to the meal. Only when everyone had enjoyed and
eaten their fill, did the cook, in this case one of the sons, take a bowl and eat his fill.


The meal over, our host put back on his royal blue coat, that he proudly told me had cost 800rmb, showing me the handiwork and frog fastenings that held it together in the front.
It was a delightful experience, full of hospitaliy and generosity - they all reminded me so much
of Israeli hosts or my own mother, constantly filling your plate without even asking, making sure
that you are completely satisfied. Upon leaving I was told that as I was so far away from my
own home, I should feel free to treat their home as my own and come any time. It was
truly a warm, generous and sincere offer. I shall look forward to my return visit.

Guccci in Beijing

Well, today I was taken to my first Mall. This particular Mall is called 'Shin Kong Place' and is
located between the 2nd and 3rd Ring Road. (Beijing is built around it's central square and
Fobrbidden City, around which there are ring roads, growing larger and larger, encasing the
entire city, up to the 5th ring road, where the Olympic Stadium is situated). This Mall is built
between a mixture of Harrods London and a French or Rome chic high street. Many a designer
name that you could think of including Gucci, Prada and many others are to be found here. There exclusive stores elegantly furnished, displaying their wares with utter elegance. The upper floors are more of the same, well known brand names displayed as in any elegant store
in the West.

Not able to do more than window shop, I enjoyed looking at the beautiful displays, for even
if I was able to afford such things, am not one who would enjoy spending my money on such
unecessary luxuries - I prefer the markets and even second hand stores, where a good bargain
can be found, that can be made to look original and having the knowledge and experience of a good hunt and paying a low price.

But it was to the basement that my attention turned. Here displayed for all to see, was a mini
food hall, I say mini in comparison to such as one to be found in Fortnum & Mason (London),
displaying meats, cheeses and more importantly chocolates!! Being a choco-holic, I could not
resist the tempting treats and stopped at the Belgian Chocolate counter, not asking the price, but
sure that they must compare favorably with the west, I told my colleague that we would taste
4 pieces, 2 each. After choosing the first 2, she warned me, after seeing the price advertised that
it may prove to be a little too expensive! So stopping at too, I asked for them to be weighed and
be told the price. The young woman's face was a picture, as she looked both astounded and
offended at more mere offerings, but nevertheless proceeded to weigh them.

To my horror, the price came to 55 rmb - this in shekels is around 22.50 and in pounds sterling
just under threee pounds!! To my shame and maybe credit, I hastily apologised and refused to take or pay for the two delicious looking chocolate pieces, but quickly shuffled away with my head bent in shame.

My friend, laughing at my anguish, proceeded to take me around the food hall, until finally we
fell upon a French Patisserie, here we found a delicious choux pastry, filled with fresh cream
and strawberries for only 10rmb (5nis - pounds: 1.25) which we bought and thoroughly
enjoyed! (I cant help dreaming about those chocolates though........).

Trials of moving in

As most of us 'appartment junkies' know, moving in has its own trials and tribulations even for the more seasoned of us. I have moved many an appartment, even though after every one I swear that I will not do it again, I always seem to do so. This time in a new country, city, culture... need I say more.

Morning came and the house was as warm as toast due to the central heating system that furnishes all the building, but to my surprise there was no electricity. As the grey light of the China sky sheds very little as by way of light, this proved to be a state of emergency. I vaguely remembered that my landlord had told me that I had to fill up the meter, that now seemed to be more hungry than a stray cat, but for those of us who are accustomed to receiving our bills on the doormat every two months, it came as quite a shock.

Rummaging around amongst my papers, I found a card that looked somewhat like a credit card, with the word electricity written on it in english. Armed with this in hand I remembered being told that the only bank that I could top the card up at was the Agricultural Bank which lucklily, one of their branches was a short walking distance from my house.

Upon entering the Bank I was greeted by a low murmer; people were seated in rows patiently awaiting their turn, talking in hushed voices, and watching the banners above the tellers work station flicker and change as their numbers were called.

A touch screen was located to the right of the entrance and with the use of sign language, mimicry and facial expressions, one of the buttons was pressed and a ticket with a number placed in my hand. (For all would be travellers, a short crash course in theatre is highly recommended, to enable you to lose all inhibitions and make a complete fool of yourself whilst trying to get the other party to understand what you need!!) Taking a seat, I now hoped that I would be able to understand when
my number was being called.

Unfortunately at this particular location, there is no loud speaker in english, all instructions are transfered in Chinese, but due to the changing numbers above the counters, I was able to determine when it was my turn.

Transaction completed, I returned home fully expecting to find my house restored to light. Upon discovering this was not so, I turned over the card and found an emergency number, not stopping to think if I would be able to communicate or not, I rang. To my luck there was an english answerphone that told me to replace the receiver and they would return my call. Not even being able to count to ten, as good as their word they did.

Following the careful instructions of the young lady patiently explaining what to do, I armed with chair over my arm, climed the flight of stairs outside my appartment and found my own personal meter.
You have to understand that there are some things in life I just dont do - such as running after buses or climbing chairs! But there seemed to be no choice for it, but to do so. Holding tightly onto the
window (irrelevant that I could have fallen out of it) I climbed up and inserted the card in the correct slot. Entering my appartment, still with the young lady on the line, I fully expected to find electricity, but no, I was recquired to do the whole procedure all over again, this time remembering to switch back to the upright positiion the emergency switch and low and behold as they say 'there was light!'.

I guarantee that from now on, I shall be topping up the offending box, monthly!

The move cont.....s

Upon arriving back at the appartment, I happily sauntered off the lift at floor no.3 and turned left. This is when disaster struck. For the life of me I could not remember where my appartment was. I climbed stairwell after stairwell looking for my door, they all looked alike and I was not about to leave my bags of shopping in this unknown rabbits' warren, so pulled and shoved it in front of and behind me, as I searched in vain for my home. In tears, after 20 minutes, I resolved myself to being unable to find it and phoned the ''agent'' in shame. After careful instructions, I turned right instead of left at the lift, down the corridor to the furthest staircase, up one and a half floors - and home!

After spending a restless night, the bed, a double, being as hard as rock, I decided to delve back
into the magazines and see where I had gone wrong. Advertised there under Supermarket/superstore was the French chain store ''Carrefour" - after having gone to the local
internet connection office, that was really close by, my knight put me into a taxi to the ''super''.

This kind of market I have not seen, even in London. As you enter, all entrances to stores in China are covered with heavy plastic sheeting or vinyl (maybe to keep out the cold) and one has to push it aside to enter. On entering there is a moving ramp, like an escalator that takes you to the next floor, in some supermarkets there are even three floors. You take your trolley or basket with you on the way and there need be no fear, for the electronic walkway locks the trolley and stops it from rolling backwards, unfortunately it does not offer the same service for you, but there is a handrail to hold on to for support. At the top, a gentleman that seems to be dressed as a security guard, helps your trolley (not you) off the escalator and guides you into the store.

Here it is very much like a large Tesco, where they sell everything from underwear to a pencil.
Walking through the aisles slowly, I began to fill my trolley. If you are a careful and not too fussy a shopper, you are able to find here everything for the cheapest of prices, cheaper than the
other two places I had visited yesterday. A chair for 20rmb (10nis) just over $2 or just over one pound (sterling), a kettle for 16nis (2 pounds or $4) etc..... At this price it is possible to leave it all behind to make it easier or more comfortable for the next tenant.

Chop sticks or course, but also a normal cutlery set other odds and ends and down to the supermarket to stock up on food. For those of you who are worried that you are not used to the Chinese cuisine, I promise you that there is food of all kinds to be found. Firstly cakes and candies, the chinese have a very sweet tooth, sugar still comes in lumps here, something that took me back to tea at my grandparents house. Cereals, tinned foods, meats, fish all that
you could wish for. I myself do not eat sea food and found the display not so terrible and quite
easy to avert ones eyes. Yoghurt is sweet, even when plain and white cheese impossible to find
unless imported.

Vegetables are plentiful, but the cheapest and nicest are the courgettes, broccoli and celery!
Now with trolley overflowing it was time to make my way home, with my goodies and home comforts. Unbelievable how cheap I was able to shop and just to give an example - decorative
cushions 10rmb (5nis, one pound 20p, $2.5) a large box of corn flakes, an unknown brand to me at 12nis (24rmb, $3, one pound fifty pence) - if you know how to shop and live as a native, things are inexpensive; that is the secret, to live as a native.

Well almost, tonight I paid the taxi an extra fare to help me up the stairs to home!! Í will be a ''Beijinger" tomorrow.

Moving in day

Well, today was the big day. Time to move out of the nice business hotel that I had been treated to by a friend and for the new life to begin. This as you can imagine was tinged with a litte nervousness of the unknown, a lack of any Chinese vocabulary and a large stint of optomism.

Taking down my 45kg luggage was not a problem for the hotel porter, but you should of seen the
face of the taxi driver when he realised he was expected to lift it into the baggage. As far as he was concerned, by luggage could have dropped on the roadside, because under no circumstances
was he willing to strain himself by turning it around that it would fit comfortably in sideways. So with the suitcase ''butt'' sticking out and the bonnet flopping, large extra handluggage taking up
most of the back seat, we set off on our way without a backward glance. Of course a lingering look at western civilisation would have been expected, but with a big bag bouncing in the back blocking my view, a little uncomfortable.

Upon arrival at my new home, I was greeted by my volunteer ''agent''. Agents are a normal side of renting if you are a foreigner in China, but I was lucky when mine turned out to be a family friend of the owners and no extra cost charged. This knight in shining armor that lives close by, had opted to help me with my offending suitcase. For sure he had not bargained for the sheer size and weight of it, as well as the flights of stairs it had to be lugged over. But, a charmer he proved to be, even when mopping his brow and expressing a sigh of relief that we had made it, he didnt cease to smile.

Now in, I could inspect my quarters. A simple factor that I had not taken into consideration when bringing with me a blanket, towels, sheets, cuddly toys (scooby, hippo and blue elephant all presents and memories of the past) that of course could not be left behind, plus a small travelling kettle - I had overlooked the fact that I had now nothing to eat with or on!

Browsing/searching earnestly through the magazines that seem to be for free in English for ex-pats at our centre, I saw a number of familiar names that would serve as possibilies for shopping.
Walmart and Ikea were two of them, so armed with list I set out on my expedition.

Disappointment can hit you hard. Not being an american, I am unaware of what Walmart looks like in the States, but to me here in Beijing it looked like an out of place department store, that
had a ring of the west with eastern undertones. I found the prices not in the least competitive, so much for their famous ''we try to be the cheapest"...... or something like that, that would be
an impossibility in China and as for Ikea, I think they were giving it away and someone forgot to
tell me how to get it for free!!

So, disappointingly I returned home with ''bits and bobs'' that would have helped if I had had food to put in the storage containers, or my kettle would have fitted into the socket, but I now
did have a cushion or two for where to put my very weary head.

Finding an appartment

Well the most important order of business was to find an appartment. As in most countries of the world today, this can be done quite easily with the help of the internet. There are generally
listings in the native language and then again in English for ex-pats. Of course as we all well know for the non native speakers the prices are generally higher, but hopefully the accomodation a little more to the western taste.

A few tips I was warned of before I began. Firstly make sure that the landlord will be willing to
come with you to the police station to register your residency. Second, it is standard practice in Beijiing to pay three-six months rent in advance plus the usual deposit of one month held in guarantee of misuse, non payment etc.. Agents fees are also common, one month extra to be paid if you should use an agent and of course whether the appartment faces east, west, north, south - as to the coolness of the flat.

What I have found the most difficult in the first days was the pollution, being now told that it is
common for westerners to be sick (cold, cough, flu) in the first week as you become (unfortunately) to the smog and pollution. A humidifier is a must, or air cleaner that looks something like an air conditioner. Having tried the public toilets and discovering a basin like you find in your shower tray, a normal wc was a must. There are generally no showere trays in the
lower priced appartments or stop for the water flowing out of the door, but this is common here.

So, to look. I sat on the internent making list upon list. Priority was at first distance, then price and of course the state of the appartment. My budget was limited as I had now to remember that I would be living off their currency and not us dollars! Another factor for me was not to have to pay agents fees if possible ,as this would push up my budget to the limit. I had only come with a small amount and this had to stretch till pay day.

Coming at this time of year was not the best, as before the holiday the general public is either
getting ready to travel back home ot wanting to save their funds for presents and entertaining.
This means that the wages too would be smaller than necessary to live comfortably, save and send some back home - whatever was necessary at the time.

In the end, believe it or not, after having made a number of appointments, that included also sharing, I chose the first!! The building itself is located opposite a gym that is to be used during the olympics, so I had to make sure that the contract would be tight (in case they would become
one of the natives willing to rent out their property during the games). Another point was those
listed above. The premises on the outside look like most chinese residences and the interior a little crummy. There is a security lock on the outside door and some sore of guard/warden who sits in a little office at the entrance of the compound.

The public toilet is just outside the compoud gates and although this may sound negative, has actual positive elements. There is a constant stream of people in case of danger; most of the gentlement that make use of this facility are taxi drivers, convenient when you are in a hurry.

As you step into the building the light does not always come on automatically and you have to stamp your foot for it to light up. The floors go every third number, so your appartment is set in between the floors, you can either climb up or down depending on your stamina ability.

The appartment itself was in good condition. Centrally heated, air condition, all facilities, a normal toilet and shower that spills all over. It was not too small and of course the deciding factor, someone else was interested in it too - so I took it! What happened next, I'll tell you later.

First Cultural Impressions

Kareeoke is a national favorite leisure activity of the Chinese people, nothing like the style back home where you go to a large pub and everyone has a chance to sing, but more of a private affair consisting of one to a party affair, held in private rooms. Pubs, restaurants or coffee hangouts will double up in the evening to host small to large private rooms, encased with the most up to date
equipment, songs of every kind and in all languages available for your use. Dinner is provided at
cost, from the simple snack to the full 'do' - prices will vary according to day, availability, size of party etc..

A close second is Poker, this is played by men and women alike and poker clubs are as common
as Bridge clubs in the rest of the world, in fact the Bridge club that I did find specializes in teaching Chinese!

The next popular activity is not table tennis as we are always led to believe, that may be found in the poorer localities, as a basketball court or football pitch is to the rest of the world, or at a recreation centre - a form of Chinese Chequers, complicated and intricate is taught from almost babyhood and played by all ages (not Chess).

Rice as I have always understood is not the stable diet for all of China, but more for those in the
South. In Northern China noodles is the name of the game. A large bowl of noodles, varying in size
from skinny to large, long fat versions is the stable diet of all, how they stay so skinny can only be put down to a different metabolism! If rice is served at the meal, it will be as an accompaniment
and not the main dish. Brown rice, or stir-fry is considered an expense and not chosen by the locals unless a large party is partaking in the meal.

Meat, duck, pork or chicken courses are served as an extra and shared between all, this both keeps down the cost and allows for greater variety. Each particiapant is given a small bowl plus chopsticks and a spoon in the dish keeps down the transfer of germs from plate to plate. Eating at a local hangout is hot, crowded and noisy, you will probably be the only westerner sitting there and a point of curiosity as they watch you handling your chopsticks, or in my case losing more between the sticks than what entered my mouth (unfortunately not doing any difference at present to the state of my shape), but cheap is the word!! A meal of noodles, rice and dumplings (which I shall talk
about in a moment) will cost (no tips given) around 3.50 sterling, 24nis or $5.

Dumplings, what a Jewish Eastern European mother would call 'kreplach' are a pastry made of flour, rolled out thinly and enveloped over meat or vegetables. They are then boiled and served in a basket woven steamer of two layers with soya or spicy sauce. These are the national diet and though cheap, not to my taste.

A version of these dumplings known as Dim Sum, are bought for breakfast at either the local 7 - 11 store or stand on the street, or hole in the window of the local restaurant establishment. Bought in quantities of 1 - 3, they are sold in plastic nylon bags or paper cups, with a spoon or two of soup added if so wished. They are so inexpensive that no one seems to bring them from home, but a constant stream of people are seen buying them on their way to work.

Egg rolls if served are part of the main course and corn, sweet and sour, won ton soup is a meal on its own and not served often. It was more of a case of 'what's that' when asked for. Contrary to
all TV programmes that show the people eating all kinds of sea food, here in the north it is considered expensive and bought in the better class restaurants.

Well, now that hopefully I have made you hungry to go out and buy your local traditional so called chinese food, enjoy and more tomorrow.