Friday, July 25, 2008

Fourteen Days and Counting

With the last two weeks to go before the opening ceremony, preparations for the games are high. The streets are decorated with flowers, pictures and plaques. Cars have been restricted to even and odd days, even though some have bought a second one. The Olympic lane has now been
made clear and traffic policeman are every where to be seen.

Are the Beijingers excited? I think one of my students summed it up well.
At present there is just a feeling of disenchantment and exhaustion. Even I who came with all the enthusiasm in the world, to be part of this great event, feels wrung out and tired from all the talk, prepping, moaning, complaining, visas, restrictions and pep commanding! It has taken the
fire out of the flame!

Nevertheless, I am sure that when they start, the city will rally itself and
be happy to take part in the festivities despite the foreseen inconvenience.
Last tickets have gone on sale, but are limited to two at a time for any one
event and each day another category will be on sale. People have begun to queue two nights previously and I did attempt to go and purchase one today, but after seeing the unbelievable line, suffered the heat a while and
went despondently home. So far even the ticket that I have purchased from the Official Foreign Website has of yet to appear!

Last week on a visit to the 'Silk Market' the most renowned of all the 'shopping' places, you could see that they were preparing for the coming onslaught of visitors, whilst shopping with a friend, bargaining became a full scale battle of wills, as the prices have risen considerably in the anticipation and only after arguing that we were 'Beijingers' if not temporarily was the 'right' price agreed upon. Admittedly when I first entered the market, just by passing and glancing and backwardly asking the price, I just laughed out loud at some of the ludicrous prices quoted!
So know what you want to spend, before you go out to shop!

Nevertheless, bargaining and taking home a couple of treasures is fun, but DVDs and copies are limited to 'special' official sites, so worth researching on the internet before you come as to which places will actually be open and selling what it is you wish to buy. As for me, not a
big shopper at the best of times, I will be saving any trips to the market till all the visitors have long gone, to ensure that I will get the 'best' price!!
Happy hunting.

Home from Home

Finally at last, I made it to the Hou Hai! This scenic beautiful spot, set not far from the Forbidden City, is set around a man made lake. The long
walk around the lake is lined by restaurants, bars, cafes and small boutiques, that are filled with unusual gifts and treasures.

Set in the alleyways behind the lake, are the famous Hutongs of Beijing,
streets and passages laid out like a labyrinth of adventure, as you wind your way through them, either on one of the beautiful classic pedicabs of
that particular area, or by foot, peeking in a doorway or window as you pass. The question as to whether the inhabitants are the curios or you, is
always a point of view in China.

It was only last week, as I was walking on the street past a beautiful young
woman in a turquoise blue mini dress, so lovely, but who of course was the center of attention, not her, no, the short, middle aged blond in yellow crocs!?

It was a gorgeous sunny afternoon and as work seemed to have tapered down a little due to the summer holidays, I felt like I had a 'get out of jail
free card' (monopoly) and so taking with me a couple of friends, we went
off to explore. Amazingly one of them who has been living in China for a
number of years, had of yet never been there, so it was fun to explore together.

For those who have only read of the Hutongs but have as of yet not seen them, let me describe them as the old areas of Tel Aviv and Jerusalem or
the 'alleys' of Brighton in England, places where you feel that artists once
lived or where small specialist shops can be found, surprisingly the prices quite reasonable and the wares different to the infamous 'markets' of Beijing.

As for food and drink, we were in search of Pizza and after a long, long walk and request for endless directions, found it and could be seen happily munching next to the lake, directing all the other pizza-wannabes!
Restaurants and bar prices I cannot say, but understand that there is one for every taste and pocket.

The lake itself is calm and peaceful and at night is lit up with the wooden
ferries that take private parties/or groups enhanced with a young musician playing traditional instruments. For those wishing to pedal, an
array of pedal boats, from large to small, even decorated with a swan are
available for hire, but that I will try another day.

For me, it was an afternoon/evening break and a reminder of home. For
I surely miss the 'Hutongs' of Jerusalem dearly, but this was as close as
I could get.

Friday, July 18, 2008

A Sad Time

Being far away from home can be very hard at times, not only because I miss my children and grand-daughter, but being out of the country when the nation binds together, as only Israel knows how, can be difficult too. Watching the coffins of Ehud Goldwasser and Eldad Regev being
brought home, was heartbreaking and in turn receiving warm condolences from fellow colleagues
on the happening, touching. One even went so far as to wear a tie full of flags and proudly showed me that the Israeli flag had 'pride of place on it'.

I came to Beijing with enthusiasm and excitement, hoping to be here through the build up to the
Olympic Summer Games and somehow participate in their preparation, whether through teaching English or purchasing tickets, but to share in the atmosphere.

Today unfortunately, I do not feel the same way, as the last few months have been a series of
ping-pong over the visas, tickets, spot passport checks, taxi refusal to take you because you are
a foreigner, as well as other annoying bits that makes one feel that the Olympics should have been delayed and celebrated in 2012.

A few nights ago, a firework rehearsal was done at the 'Bird's Nest' stadium, that truly highlighted the sky, but nevertheless leaves a feeling that together with the general clean up
of the city, through flowers and decorations, is just a cosmetic welcome as opposed to a truly
warm one. Personally I feel at this point, that if the government would appoint volunteers to
stand on the streets giving out free badges, stickers or flags, it would greater endear them in the
eyes of visiting nations, as opposed to only spending money on the opening and closing ceremonies, that will be forgotten within a month, whereas freebies and welcoming gestures
will go a longer way in changing the sour taste that most people have towards this year's games.

As for tickets, I have been informed from abroad that tickets will be on sale during the games, but no such notification has been given here and with the general paranoia over security and the
book of rules, I truly wonder if this will be so. As for myself, I have purchased one ticket and hopefully it will be delivered safely and I shall attend my one event and participate in the olympic festivities or harrassment depending on on how it will be at the time!

Nevertheless, all said and done, it should and hopefully will be, once the games start, an
exciting time for everyone, a coming together of people through a love of sport, in the name of
the game, a moment of harmony and all willing, peace too, I for my part intend to be there in
the thick of it - hope to see you too.

Saturday, July 5, 2008

I Thought I Knew Better!!

Well, it was raining again!!! It seems that is the normal event for Friday evenings during the Beijing
summer. The problem is that when it rains there are no taxis to be had for 'love or money!' Working
on this particular night is fun, because the center is quiet and I have time to work on my blog, but has also become another reason to stay indoors longer as there are no taxis to be had!

We are situated close to the embassy area, so there are lots of ex pat popular restaurants in the vicinity and finding an empty or even available cab, near impossible. So last night, I braved the elements and stepped out into the stormy night. Puddles were deeps and I saw a number of bedraggled people, with limp from the torrential rain umbrellas, sighing and bemoaning the lack of cabs. So, I decided, even though I was in my yellow well worn Crocs, that are non too safe on the
slippery pavement, to start to walk further along to another main road to see if I would fare better.

As has happened to me a number of times in the past, a car pulled up and asked me where I wished to go. I usually immediately refuse the offer and wait patiently, but due to past experience the previous week, having got caught for over an hour in the downpour, I decided to accept his offer and showed him my paper as to where I wished to go. We squabbled over the price of 30 to 20 yuan and set off on our way. Let me at this point explain that there are a number of Beijingers, who work as a private taxi service, not wishing to pay the high price for the taxi licence, but usually take
only those that they know. On this particular occasion, I felt sure that he thought that this dumb foreigner, could be 'taken for a ride!'.

As we set off, I gave him directions and soon enough he began to become really agitated, insisting
that I was taking him the wrong way (of course he had misread the paper as there are two places with similar names) and that the price should be 50 yuan!! He had locked the door to the car and when I told him that I would get out and make my own way, I found that the door could not be opened. Strangely though, he had left the window down, but when he saw I was trying the handle from the outside, drove faster.

By this time I was being sworn at. I was not overly worried, because I thought that I could always beat him off with my umbrella, but his eyes kept going to my handbag and I was not going to give that up without a fight!! After all, I too work hard for my money. As luck would have it, we pulled up at the next lights and a police car drew up beside us; through hand gestures I showed him that I would attract their attention or scream through the open window if he did not pull over and stop!

There were a number of people standing on the street, all stranded without a cab, so I made out as
if I was about to call out and he pulled over, at first refusing to open the door. After a moment he did and I calmly climbed out. No money was exchanged as I did not trust myself to open bag amd I walked off in the opposite direction, towards where a group of people were standing.

But, he did not go!! He stayed in his car, next to the kerb, waiting to see what I would do next.
The people began to filter out and he began to put his car into reverse. I moved quickly and turned the corner and hailed down a cab as quickly as I could, keeping an eye on the car coming in reverse in my direction!! Due to the heavy falling rain, I felt sure that he could not see me, so I dove in, crouched down on the seat, to the amazement of the cabbie and we drove off into the night!!

A few quick glances back to ensure that we were not being followed and I promise you that I learned my lesson!!




Friday, July 4, 2008

Tips & Fits

I can't believe it, in a city as large and populated in Beijing, I am now being remembered by taxi drivers!! On more than one occasion it has come to pass that a driver has taken me and known exactly where it was that I wished to go!! Please do not imagine that I am able to communicate in Chinese, but as an expert in body language and making myself understood verbally in a mixture of languages and a smattering of Chinese, I get by!

What is it? My hair, my clothes? Am I the only blond, short, 'not slim'
foreigner in Beijing? So, be warned. Driving in a taxi is always an unbelievable experience.

For those of you who will be travelling to Qingdao for the 'water' Olympics, so far as per my visit there, suntan lotion need not be on your
list of priorities. British coastline or the Mediterranean it is not, but except for the beaches near Hong Kong, this I understand is as good
as it gets. Maybe I have been spoilt, as I have lived in the sun for such
a long time, but the white sand and misty days I found disappointing.

A beach here though is much less noisy than those back home, for even though a game of badminton may be being played, at least the shuttlecock doesn't make any noise! What is nice though is how families and friends sit together on the sand, these two things being of prime importance to the natives and smiles and laughter can be seen and heard all around.

The strange part though is the tents. As far as I knew, tents are used for camping, but here they are used as a sun protector and are an essential part of the trip to the beach! If you do not have this requirement, then chairs and an enormously over sized umbrella will suffice. Clothes are the attire for women and bare flesh kept to a minimum, except for the gentlemen, who seem to be sporting 'bikini' swimming costumes as were last worn in the 70's!

Kiddies in woo lies and sandals, armed with buckets and spades, adults not even stopping to roll up their pants as they wade into the ocean, is
such an unusual sight, that I wondered at times why I was again the main
attraction, sitting on the furthest wall away from the sea, minding my own business. But nevertheless, a large amount of holiday revellers decided that I was the 'sideshow' that one had to pose with!

As for the headgear!? All sizes and shapes seem to be the latest mode
and sun visors that stick out so far, that they take up a good chunk of the road! Crocs seem to be the feet gear to wear and often mine are pointed at and commented on "oh! you have a pair too!"

But the most shocking observation of all, was the lack of bicycles!! After
Beijing where it is a wheel every second, here the 'non' event of them was the surprise. Here the traffic lights have clocks attached to them, counting down the seconds till they change. I haven't quite worked out yet if this is because the people of this city drive too fast or too slow!!

As for coffee shops and less crowded places, I did find that in this particular city, it was possible to find a more secluded spot and have a
quiet cuppa, but that is not a promise for what is to come in the Olympic
days, all I can say is good luck!

Last tips, for those Olympic ticket holders among you. There is a 57 point manual being given on the dos and don'ts of the Olympics and I suggest that you read carefully the back of your official tickets.

No food may be brought that is of a size that can be thrown. Does that
mean we can bring a bag of peas and toss one at a time??? I hope not!
I understand the concern and for a hassle and happier travel, the least
carried the better, the less that will be confiscated and to the committees
credit, low priced refreshments have been the promised order of the day.

Remember, that the idea is to have fun. It will not be easy, 'cos the inconvenience to the already crowded city will be rife, but the expectations are high and the moral needs boosting, besides there is so
much to see and take in, just stay smiley and calm - as well as polishing up your haggling skills! See you in Beijing!



Bits & Bobs!

Who can believe, Prince Charles of England, the famous tree hugger and
environmentalist, who has been so instrumental and vocal about architecture, is now involved in saving the courtyards of Beijing! The project is to renovate and preserve this heritage and not let all be torn down in the way of development and progress. Good on ya lad!

The China green foundation together with some of the eateries here in
Beijing, have added a small 5 - 10 surcharge to your bill. This is done without asking for your consent in an effort to plant Poplar tree seedlings
around the land. Each 5 rmb = 1 - 2 meters of trees. Every 1,000 rmb
provides 3,000 seedlings.

But don't worry, it will only occur at the restaurants with a tree logo on
their window!

An effort to make any place greener is always a commendable thing and
if you work out what 5 - 10 rmb is in your currency, certainly not worth losing any sleep over!

The Party Office of Spiritual Civilization Development and Guidance (goodness what a mouthful), has come up with a chant for the games.
They claim that this chant is appropriate for all countries, even though
the words sung, are "Go China Go!!"

For those of you who wish to get in the spirit of things, it is:

Clap clap, thumbs up, arms out, upward hands in fists, then arms out,
open and up!!??? Does it sound complicated, believe me it is worse when
you try it!! But don't forget the chant though..................
What did you expect me to write it in Chinese tooooooo?
Suffice to say that if you can manage to 'get it round your tongue', you
don't need me!

As for the weather in Beijing. For all those worried about the heat, have
no fear, I haven't seen so much rain in a whole winter back home! There are days that the humidity is bad, but as for son kissing one's skin, no chance. Here the umbrella business is booming, for if they are not being
bought to protect the fair ladies from the brightness of the summer light, then they sure come in handy against the rain. (But remember, the wet
falling blobs are all due to government intervention, or so I have been told on good authority, more than once!).

I'm back!!! Did you miss me??

I read something interesting this week about 'mosquitoes' - it is the pregnant females that want our blood! They need it for their eggs!
The protein that they leave in our bodies and attacks our immune
system, develops and becomes inflamed and starts to itch.

Be careful, those of you who like to wear bright colors and expose your
skin, they are crazy for perfume and sweet smelling shampoo as well as
the two aforementioned.

What puts them off is vitamin B1 and 2, they just don't like it, but it won't
bother your friends, garlic is good too, but beware that will be a no starter
for anything you might have planned! Final tip, fans keep them away too.

What can you do, you can use anthistamine cream or menthol, peppermint or eucalyptus oil and the least effective calamine lotion and
vinegar! Don't forget if you scratch it will lead a lifelong scar!

As for me, thankfully electricity is cheap here, so I can leave the air condition on all night and the mosquitoes only attack me during the
day!!!