Tuesday, January 27, 2009

Crackers, but Christmas has passed!

Well, Chinese New Year has arrived and if you are unsure whether it is upon you or not, you just have to make sure that you support yourself with a good pair of ear plugs as the firecrackers are being let off morning, noon and night! Also the red lanterns are out on the roads again, adding to
a festive feel, whilst fireworks light up the sky. Nevertheless it seems strange to me in a country that is so careful as to the welfare of its children, it lets them run around freely pulling lit firecrackers along behind them!

The shops pre new year were full of shoppers as they purchased food items in gift packs and red underwear for those whom the Golden Year of the Ox is their birth year, so have to wear a red item
on their person the whole year through. Visitors from the west are always under the impression that things in China are 'dirt' cheap, but this is not so, as quality items and fashion couture names are probably even more expensive here than in Europe, whereas cheap items can be bought anywhere in the world, the difference being here that some brands have given permission to have their items
copied, but in some cases do not. Buying cheap for limited funds usually means poor quality, but
what there is here in abundance is 'factory' outlets where you can purchase the real item, at half price. This in turn could be likened to an extremely classy second hand store, where you at times
can pick up new goods but for half their retail tag.

Knowing how to bargain is the key, research of prime importance and knowing when to walk away either when you have met your match or in hope of a better deal. I personally only go shopping when I am in the market
to make a purchase, whether it be with friend, colleague or student, I will
argue the price till I get the deal that I want. Do not be intimidated or believe all that you read in the guide books about the 'aggressive' sales people, money changing hands will always talk.

New Year is a family time and China is no different to anywhere in the world, where members wish
to be together and it rather nice and not at all disturbing to hear the noise of my neighbors as they
go up and down the stairs in groups, laughing and chattering away to each other in their excitement. Looking out the window it is also a pleasing sight to see the inhabitants of this city bundled up against the wind and cold, clutching their red parcels and gifts, laden in their arms, as they ensure that they make their way to pay their respects to all members of their extended family.
Here even though our cultures are different, festivities are generally the same.

Eating as I have mentioned before never ceases to astonish me, but even though slurping soup and pulling up noodles with a whoosh and not like we eat spaghetti, there is a custom to the order of eating. Chopsticks should be used in communal dishes, working your way from the outside in, but for others a separate set is used. Napkins though are small and licking sticky fingers surprisingly not acceptable. The delicate way of rolling up Peking Duck can be tricky, but the taste
is delicate and worthwhile. In my opinion though, as I have said before, Chinese food is generally
too wet either being cooked in too much oil or water for my taste.

It is nice though to see the locals come out of hibernation in the cold winter, wrapped up in an array of woolly caps and hats, scarves and fur lined boots, with thick sheepskin gloves adorning their hands. Even though snow has as of yet not appeared, the cold has a way of seeping through your bones. Taxis on a freezing morning can be an impossibility to find, causing one to wait for more than 30 minutes whilst they pass by full and unwilling to stop, although I have found that with a cane in hand, they are more obliging than without and ofter come around the side to offer assistance if
needed or not.

So, I have read my horoscope, am taking the required vacation, snuggling up in my central centrally heated apartment, working my way through my pantry and catching up on my blog.
What will this year hold in store? For that I shall have to wait and see. Hopefully for all of us,
good health, peace and prosperity and I will add to that love of your family, good friendship and
enjoyment in whatever you do.

Culture vs Culture

It is so easy to be judgemental and so important not to be, when one lives abroad you have to remember that we are only visitors or guests and even if our stay should be for a long while, unless we take upon ourselves citizenship, we do not have the true right to pass ruling.

Being away from home during the time of the Gaza war, has for me put a different perspective on how it is to be an outsider and listen to what people say or hint at in their opinion of your country and what is happening there. But nevertheless, one sees cultural differences and wonder how long it will take to cross the barrier to reach a better understanding.

Today KFC and McDonald's have not only cornered the market on fast food, but have managed to create a menu that appeals to the Chinese taste, but labelled as an all American brand, including noodles and rice into their list as well as french fries. This reminds me of the time when Chinese food hit the Mediterranean and those who came to sample the food, would insist on bread being served as an accompaniment to their meal, today years on, not being the case any longer.

Saying this, the will to fit into a western civilization doesn't include the use of mobile phones like outside China, here they are more for personal fun and usage than being a public disturbance.
It is not that business people will not sit at a meal and talk on their phone, but less obvious th an it is abroad when two, three people or more will partake of a meal together and each one is oblivious of the other whilst they hold their own personal conversations with whomever it is on the other end. Otherwise they are more like toys, with each one having more facilities and toys than the next, as each one vies for more functions. Here using the phone whilst driving is forbidden, but as their seems to be a greater shortage of policeman on the street to check on this crime, so accidents whilst driving do happen.
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It is amazing how many cars there are on the roads, but more amazingly how they all look in mint condition, so when asking as to how this was possible, I was told that not only do all cars as
in abroad, have to pass their MOT, but should they have an accident they must fix them as
quickly as possible or be fined. This in a way is a good thing, because the roads even though heavily laden, look cleaner. Strange though that even though this is due to aesthetics is also because of the environmental issue, but when I see the factory funnel chimneys billowing out white smoke, this seems a strange contradiction.

In a society where again the policy is one child, it is difficult for mothers of other nations who are planning to have a baby, when their present child turns around and asks "why. don't you love
me any longer?" What most parents have to realise is, that all children, whatever the age, will feel jealousy at some point at the birth of a new baby, whether it be immediate or at a later age or stage. It is normal. What is maybe different, is that because of the onus of socializing here in China with work colleagues, it is extremely important if one wants to ensure a successful promotion in the future, to go out with work mates is a must and be part of the external life that
is work. Today with difficulties being faced by some of the companies and salary reductions being enforced, it is hard for some who have come to regard the work place as their home, either
because it is their first place of employment or because of friends. I myself have always counted
myself as extremely lucky as the places where I have worked have not only become family, but have continued to remain so many years later.

Passing Time

It seems unbelievable how time has passed by, a year already since my first entry into Beijing
and a new Chinese Year, the Golden Ox, has begun. During the last month there has been war
in Gaza, a rise and fall of the stock market, the financial cutbacks effecting China too and a new
American President in office.

But despite all these events, life moves on its uneventful way, each one busy with his own life, worries, health and financial issues, dating, loving and generally having fun. Through this time I have continued my fascination with the bicycle phenomena of Beijing, finding myself staring every morning at the non stop array of riders decked out in their winter woollies, vigorously riding their way along. Do those who carry an overload have to receive a licence? On the rare
occasion I have even spotted young children riding small vehicles with stabilizers on the busy street, whilst their mothers trot alongside. But what of those who are unable to fit into this category? Are their any such Beijingers? Yes, I have heard, there are. Even though it is of the
minority, there are children who do not have this built in sense of equilibrium and do not ride bikes with their peers. As for the women above the age of 40, they seem to have their own style of riding, choosing to set off with their left foot on the left pedal, raising their right over the seat as they go, quite a feat that is both admirable and fascinating to watch.

How do these children feel? Are they misfits in a society where fitting in is of the prime importance? Social pressures happen everywhere and I hear this from both adult and children
who do not quite make the fit for one reason or another. From a young age all signs of affection are stopped, both by parent and grandparent and the children grow up without any physical signs of affection, something that I find incredibly lonely and even though they think it is the
norm, can lead to all kinds of socializing difficulties.

Even though Beijing winters are dry, but cold, even so in the summer months, children are
restricted from playing any form of sport that can cause physical harm, be it football, basketball,
or anything else that may cause irreparable damage. Music is something that is encouraged though, usually more than one instrument and can in any country help a child to fit in, whether it be drums, trumpet, horn or some other kind of more unusual tool that will help the individual
feel special.

An avid viewer of American Idol, we can see in the lives of many how music or song has helped them through hard times and I myself chose the pen to help me. But it is nevertheless a society that condemns more than one child and it is astonishing to hear how in the villages a fine can be as little as 80 rmb for an extra offspring, but in the cities in the thousands, still able to result in loss of future promotion or even at times, of job. It does seem a little unfair, that if a family is willing to pay the price, they must still be penalised, it is hard for us westerners to understand.

But social life in China is always booming, for even though restaurants are geared to the middle or upper classes, even the poorest of pockets can occasionally afford a cheap and cheerful snack
from a street vendor or Chinese fast food chain. During the last month I have been wined and dined at a number of establishments and though I am limited in what I am able to eat, it has been an interesting experience.

Peking Duck at the most famous of places can be priced from anywhere between 250 rmb upward for two people, but I was taken to a place that fed 5 adults and one child, 2 ducks, stuffed rolls with meat, rice, a side dish, bottle of coke and what is known as white wine (alcohol) for just 220 rmb!! Tasty you may well ask and the answer is yes.

For all you Humus lovers though, I must point out that what is served in restaurants here is a far cry from the authentic variety that we find back home and should be avoided if you hold yourself to be a connoisseur; though one can eat at a Mediterranean restaurant extremely well for around 75 rmb. Of course hands down, the American style eateries, excluding McDonald's or
Kentucky Fried Chicken that cater more for the local palette, serve large portions for reasonable amounts.

More about the cuisine, promotion and social.. izing next time..

Thursday, January 1, 2009

Idiosyncrasies and Resolutions

It is fun being back, China never ceases to be a place of fascination and now, a year almost to the
day since I first arrived, a time to look back. When I first entered Beijing, I was nervous everything
appeared so large and different, the language an impossibility and the culture so alien to the hubbub and speed of Israel. Here even though there were many, raised voices they were only heard at places of eating. Horns were pressed on the roads and the drivers seemed to turn corners without any traffic light indication. Here one could be knocked down by a bicycle, spoken to in a language irrelevant whether you could understand or not, stared at, even having your
ear rings touched on your person as if you did not exist! But, I had survived all the shocks and even to a point become part of this community that they call the Chaoyang District of Beijing.

Since December 2008, when I returned, I have seen the changes that have taken place since August and the influence of the foreign visitors and athletes that took part in the historic Olympics.
The stares, glances and looks on the street are far less, it seems that it has become a regular
occurrence to see foreigners in their own particular style of dress. The taxi drives, though few and
far between, are able to say a smattering of words in English, people are more helpful, although I
am not sure if that is more to do with my decorative crutches, than their new found tolerance, but
assistance and holding open doors is far more apparent, especially with my neighbors who have
even taken the garbage out of my hands to throw away or helped me take my shopping up the three
flights of stairs that I have to take into my apartment.

The most startling for me is the taxi drivers again, not in the fact that they can say a word or two in
English, but their helpfulness and tolerance towards my physical state. The large heavy brown boots that encase my feet may have something to do with this, as they are unusual, ugly and clumsy, but they manage to allow me to wear bandage and heavy socks, so what do I care about
their beauty.

As for the other peculiarities, that would be the 'fashionable' PJ's worn by the above 50 citizens of
Shanghai, that were used to wearing this particular attire on the street as a sign of prosperity and now maybe more of a show of defiance against coming hard times. Dogs, toy ones as we call them, even though hairy in appearance, are decked out fashionable attire of warm woolly and elegant coats, as their hair springs up and down as they trot down the road for their daily strolls.

Business dinners are an important part of closing a deal here in Asia, but for me the ever westerner/Israeli who is used to both the cutlery 'start from the outside and work your way in' attitude as well as there is nothing like 'mopping up the Hummus with a piece of pitta bread' style of eating,
can not quite fathom how one can close a deal whilst slurping up ones noodles! this i still have to learn.

For me, Asia has become more westernised, more McDonald's said to be opening all around the country, Chinese students who have gone abroad for their diplomas, are now returning to seek jobs back home due to the lack of abroad and bringing with them new ideas. Foreigners seeking employment were in their thousands at a recruitment fair held in America, but places were limited
as the government ensures that there is work for its citizens first. Here you enter any store and find
an abundance of assistants standing around waiting to help. There are more than is necessary, but
is a warming sight to see, for nevertheless that the pay is low, it is still better than claiming benefits and provides uniform and many a time lunch for the employee. Rather some change in your pocket, less clothes needed to buy, a reason to get up in the morning and a warm stomach, than to
have to stand in line for a handout.

Tourism though has hit, even the famous places such as Xian, the home of the Terracotta soldiers,
for even history cannot stop the economic unrest. Many construction companies and factories have
sent their employees home for a forced vacation till after the Spring Festival, the Chinese New Year, with no guarantees that the work will begin again in February, others having to take 30% of
their salary, but remain on site. But, on the other hand, there are those who are being laid off, with
no sign of hope of re employment at that firm in sight, worldwide. To help the local economy, the
Chinese Government issues a list of all the National holidays that will take place this coming year
and have made a number of 'long' weekends, with Sunday, the day after the break, becoming a
work day, to encourage spending. It is a sign of festivity for 'Beijingers' to go out to eat over this time, with family entourage. On the night of 31 December, the whole city was lit up as if it was
La's Vegas at 9.30pm, but the streets deserted and un walked upon by 11pm except for the odd
ex pat reveller.

But, here in Asia, childish activities and fun are part of the normal style of life, where Disney Tokyo
is bringing in the numbers and Lego beating all holiday sales. Bicycling on ice is an activity
where you get to ride a bike on a frame attached to a pair of ski/skates! Here the freezing winter
is not heralded with rain, but a dry one that leaves your bones frozen and even a little stiff. Padded
coats giving a layered look are the must winter wear, with boots encasing ones legs and a hood
usually fur lined (no worries about harm being done to animals here) encasing the face. Gloves, well you shouldn't leave home without them and I suggest that someone come up with an idea for
a nose warmer, which would appear a lot more elegant than the face (operation room) masks worn
in vogue, not only as a protection at the rising pollution's return, but as a muffler against the cold icy
wind.

Lastly, happily and thankfully the skies are still mainly blue and from time to time, grey does put
in an appearance, known as the Beijing sky and I have to smile when a student will point out that
in films about England, they too have this 'look' of smog and fog, which leads me to explain that this
was true at the time of 'Jack the Ripper' but now is only due to bad weather. I am not sure if they
quite believe me, I wonder if I should tell them about the beautiful blue skies of the Middle East?
but have decided that maybe not, for they probably wouldn't believe me about that either.



Is That You?

Struggling with a heavy bag laden with gifts, I made my way up the stairs of the entrance to the
place where I work. The security guard, here dressed in business suit, as opposed to uniform,
came quickly forward to open the door for me and assist me with my burden. Taking the lift up
to the 8th floor, I was understandably nervous, what would be my reception.

But, I need not have worried, as I entered the doorway, the smiles were wide, the voice warm with emotion and pride. "You're back!" was the cry. Greetings of 'how well you look', 'how brave you are', 'we were not sure if you would come back' rang out, but here I was, now hoping to pick
up not from where I left off, but to restart.

Pleasantries over, it was now time to discuss the work situation. The financial crisis had reached
China too, but not yet to the extent of grave concern, there was work, but quiet for this time of year, but things looked positive for the coming one after the Chinese New Year. It was agreed that for the time being I would work in house, as not to incur too much travel, which may prove to be difficult with a pair of crutches in tow. It was good to be back.

Now the month has ended and the new year begun. I have become a pro at getting in and out
of cabs, now challenging myself to try and go with one crutch. I have heard from other people
worldwide that the quiet times have hit, both in the business sector and education one too.

As for me, the true and warm welcome from colleague and student alike, has shown me that I
was right to come back. I could not have left without saying goodbye properly, or have gone
without completing my contracted time here too. In truth I have returned different, not only
in appearance plus appendage, hopefully temporarily, but with a new attitude to work, how
much there is I will take, but I will not eat myself up if there isn't enough and keep to my goal
of continuing to write!

Just before Christmas, we had a work party. This was a first for me and the only thing that
was missing was the mistletoe, but that was a good thing. Fun and games were had by all. For
me, it was strange that a nation that has no connection to Christianity, celebrate parties all over
the city with tombola, lucky dips and even Christmas gifts!? The streets are decorated with
trees and lights, Santa Claus decked out in his red suit bright and cheerful at many a site, mainly
of course outside the many shopping malls that are strategically placed around the city. Christmas Dinner is available at a price, one of the most expensive being 3,500 yuan per person
and there were no shortage of diners lining up to dine. But, the 'dinner' is mainly eaten at night!

Beijing is not high on the list of places to celebrate this holiday or even that of new year, for it is
not a religious festival of their keeping, but nevertheless, one has to commend the Chinese on
trying to make the ex pats feel welcome in their city, especially if they are unable to fly back home for the festivities. Now all that was left, was to celebrate the new year.

The Moment of Truth

To my surprise opening the door to my apartment was a pleasant experience, it actually felt
like a home away from home. I had truly forgotten how homely I had made it with a few choice
pieces from back home and cheap accessories from Beijing. The first thing to catch my eye was
the gallery of photographs of my family, back home they are not necessary to display as I have the real thing, but here they are a warm and welcome reminder that they are always with me.

Once my bags had been dumped unceremoniously by my driver, who was holding his bag in a sign of silent complaint, I paid him for his efforts and closed the door. First check was the electricity, water and for any unwelcome visitors that may have decided to take up residence in
my absence, finding there was some and none of the latter, I decided to reward myself with a
nice cup of Israeli coffee and the left over sandwiches that my daughter had cleverly prepared.

Now fortified with renewed energy I began to tackle the opening of my luggage and the 'clean up'
of my apartment, to give it a fresh dust free fragrance. Visitors came bearing gifts of fruit and
veg, that helped take away the pangs of homesickness. Errands that I myself was unable to do
were undertaken and the initial pressure of settling back in was taken off my shoulders.

After a two day rest up, I was ready to go and visit my place of work, but first I had to deal with
the lack of telephone, as it had been cut off whilst I was away. This of course would prove to be
my re welcome back to China, for I now had to contend with the Beijing taxi drivers once more.
The guard of my building block kindly assisted me in hailing a taxi and persuading him to drive
in to assist me with my bags. As no one in the area spoke English, I used the paper of the telephone bill to assist me to explain my place of destination. Unfortunately, as I have said a
number of times in the past, many of the drivers are unable to read very well and so started a
unwanted tour of the city as he aimlessly drove around without having a clue where he was going!

Now you will of course say, why did I not do something. Well, I did. Firstly I telephoned the phone company and handed him the phone to receive directions, which he got, not once but
5 phone calls later and 5 sets of repeated directions, two stops at strangers on the street, two
extra calls to the secretary of my office to ask for translation assistance later, we finally found it!
To give him credit, it was tucked away behind a building, although large in existence, difficult to
see. Now he had to park, in a parking lot, as I had to scale down, crutches and all, a steep slope
to enter the premises. (Remember that in my opinion, agility and balance is something like DNA
in the Asian body!)

Now of course, the long organised wait. Everywhere in China, that is not a 'hole in the wall' office, runs on a number system, with plastic chairs galore available for your comfort and expected patience. Nowhere do you hear a raised voice complaining that someone has jumped into your turn, all is organised and orderly, with a security card at the door, not waiting to check
your back for a gun or bomb, but to ensure peace and flow in the system. Finally, my number
lit up the screen, but here was to be a new difficulty, English! Here I began to see the changes that had begun pre Olympics, places of public service, that may require assistance of English, now seem to have someone in place to help. So, to my rescue came a most personable young
man, who enabled me to arrange both for Internet and telephone hook up to be arranged within
the week.

My now patient taxi driver, happy with his now high fare, took me without further hitch to my
next place of call, work, now I had to wonder what my reception would be when they saw me
again after such a long break of three and a half months.