Tuesday, September 16, 2008

Sorry, I have been gone.../Shanghai.

Apologies, apologies, apologies, but if you read on through the next few entries, you will understand why I have been out of touch and not just remiss. Over the first two entries I

will continue where I left off in Beijing and then continue my tales of where I am at this

moment.



Lucky me, I was sent on a 'business' trip to Shanghai and had a chance to see this modern

architectural city albeight in the rain! The trip to this large modern city is simple, check in

fast, but the waiting for the flight itself, long. Be sure to choose the correct airline to avoid

delays and be served more than a 'local' snack on your travel.



Upon arrival in Shanghai, depending on whick airport you come in at, the dsitance to the

city is around 45 minutes. The purpose of my short stop over in this particular city, was

to give a full day writing workshop to a major corporation and the hotel booked was the one

that would also be used for this purpose, so was not completely centrally located in the main

city. The long drive in to the accomodation, was peppered with different sites. I must admit

I could not contain my disappointment at my first glance of this 'cosmopolitan' city. The areas

we passed were a mixture of rundown and modern. It was the strangesgt sight and for the

first time, I could appreciate the Government's decision to tear down most of old Beijing and

replace it totally with new, for this mish mush, mixture of the two, was extremely strange

and took away from the beauty of each individually and showed the weaker of the two up in

a very unsightly way!



The hotel. one of the Crowne Plaza chain, was welcoming and business like, the room large,

airy and pleasant. On this trip I was accompanied by a senior colleague and we decided to

go out and explore the city. Like a good adventurist, I had planned carefully the sites that

I wished to see and enlisted the help of the concierge in deciding what would be the nearest,

most practical and enjoyable in the rain. Both due to distance and wish, we decided to visit

the local 'flea market'.



Driving through the rainy busy streets, peering out at the strange combinations of buildings,

with antennas or helmets appearing to be perched on their rooves, was rather exhilirating

but made me feel that I was stuck inbetween a time warp of two ages, both the futuristic and

the long past. We arrived at the entrance to the alleyways that led into the market and begun

to browse with no particular treasure in mind.



With the rain starting to pelt down, probably our best bargain of the day, was arguing for an

old slightly leaky umbrella, for 10 yuan!! Clutching some treasures to mark our trip and

not the customary memrobillia, we made our soggy way back to the hotel. But not so fast!

As we begun our journey back, my companion realised that she had misplaced her glasses

at a stall in the market and after some sign language and persuasion, we returned to search

through the market. Running through the rain, unable to pick my way through the heavy

raindrops, I was unsuccessful in my endeavors, so returned soaked to the skin, to change

and rethink our next plan of action.



We decided to stay local and once we were refreshed, went to the local shopping center.

There is no question, that in every major city of China, there are shopping malls in every

corner of the city, with prices ranging from the moderate to the most expensive! We were

surprised to find, favorably, a different kind of fashion (not clothes) in this city, but on

observing the women's dress, could not fathom why this city was considered the better

dressed and more modern.



An important tip for all you glasses wearers. In China, maybe because so many need to

enlist the help of eye glass wear, the choice and facilities are large. Should you require

special narrow glass, to make your glasses look more normal and not magnified, this

requires some weeks of ordering, but if your number is low, it can be immediate. Seeing

my companions discomfort on losing her glasses, we stopped at a local optician and found

an appropriate 'temporary' solution for just 40 yuan!



Feeling happy, refreshed and optimistic, we spent the next hour and a half happily browsing

through the accessory department of the local store. Hungry and ready to eat, we returned

for dinner and a good nights sleep. The next morning, after eating a european style breakfast,

I gave a successful 'writing' workshop, to a very receptive and co operative audience. It was

then with a happy step that we left this city.

The opportunity for me to see and visit Shanghai, even though for a limited period, made me

realise how happy I was with my decision to live in Beijing and appreciate the efforts that the

government had made in decorating the city to be the most welcoming it could possible be for

the forthcoming olympics, whereas I had found Shanghai to be the complete opposite, but

nevertheless interesting. I have to also comment, that even though my Chinese is limited

to just a few words, I found it almost impossible to converse and give the simplest directions

there, without the use of sign language!

Wednesday, August 20, 2008

Hoo-Hah, Hou Hai

Have you ever been somewhere, or eaten something and said, "why didn't I know about this?",
or "why have I never eaten this before?"
That is how I felt when I finally managed to visit the Hou Hai. Set close to the vicinity of the Forbidden City, this area with a man made lake in it's center, surrounded by small 'artistic'
shops, bars and restaurants, is a true 'gem!'.

Bustling with activity, this delightful 'hot' spot both in the true and idiomatic expression of the
word, is set against the background of the traditional Hutongs. Here a massage can be
received, whilst you sit on a little stool for only 20 yuan; of course this is not professionally done,
but an experience nevertheless.

The labyrinth of streets can be enjoyed with a luxury pedicab tour and stopping to pause in all
the little shops, may leave your purse a little lighter, but you will be amazed at the bargains and
treasures you may be able to find.

Personally, I went in search of the 'Pizza'. Resisting the temptation to pedal out over the water
in a Swan boat, or be serenaded by a musician on a wooden 'old dynasty tourist' ferry, I kept to
my trail of finding the most highly recommended Triangle slice in the city. After questioning a
number of passers by and being greeting with a common chorus of "I'm not from around these
parts", or some such comment as I could only understand the body language and not the words
themselves, I finally stumbled across someone who knew the exact location.

Bookings are highly recommended, as it is almost impossible to get a seat at this small,
authentically set establishment, as the trays and aromas pass before your eyes and nose.
Not willing to admit defeat, my friends and I decided to take a take out. '10 minutes' we were
quoted. After 20 minutes or so, I went in search of our meal, to be told, that further time was
necessary as they went out to milk the cow in order to prepare the cheese! At last, almost
after an hour had passed, our boxes were packed and ready. At this point I decided to play
a little trick on the 'innocent' waiter and put in his hand only three-quarters of the sum necessary
to pay for the pizza. What he did not know, was that I had the rest of the monies and tip,
securely held in my other palm.

His face turned a series of colors, as he tried to protest that this sum was inadequate, I gestured
in return that the pizza was late and therefore he should forfeit the full price. After some moments
and seeing his anguish, I signalled in a childish gesture of waggling my fingers above my head
and making some childish noise, that this was just a prank and to his immense relief deposited
the remainder of the sum, plus tip in his outstretched palm. At this point, all the other waiters
burst out laughing and we took our now 'prized' possession and went to happily much next to the
lake's shore.

Here, we became the object of every one's interest, as all who passed stopped to ask for directions
as to where the establishment was situated! Next time, I shall enlist in wearing a neon sign, with
an arrow pasted on it and shall request a free pizza for my trouble!

Friday, July 25, 2008

Fourteen Days and Counting

With the last two weeks to go before the opening ceremony, preparations for the games are high. The streets are decorated with flowers, pictures and plaques. Cars have been restricted to even and odd days, even though some have bought a second one. The Olympic lane has now been
made clear and traffic policeman are every where to be seen.

Are the Beijingers excited? I think one of my students summed it up well.
At present there is just a feeling of disenchantment and exhaustion. Even I who came with all the enthusiasm in the world, to be part of this great event, feels wrung out and tired from all the talk, prepping, moaning, complaining, visas, restrictions and pep commanding! It has taken the
fire out of the flame!

Nevertheless, I am sure that when they start, the city will rally itself and
be happy to take part in the festivities despite the foreseen inconvenience.
Last tickets have gone on sale, but are limited to two at a time for any one
event and each day another category will be on sale. People have begun to queue two nights previously and I did attempt to go and purchase one today, but after seeing the unbelievable line, suffered the heat a while and
went despondently home. So far even the ticket that I have purchased from the Official Foreign Website has of yet to appear!

Last week on a visit to the 'Silk Market' the most renowned of all the 'shopping' places, you could see that they were preparing for the coming onslaught of visitors, whilst shopping with a friend, bargaining became a full scale battle of wills, as the prices have risen considerably in the anticipation and only after arguing that we were 'Beijingers' if not temporarily was the 'right' price agreed upon. Admittedly when I first entered the market, just by passing and glancing and backwardly asking the price, I just laughed out loud at some of the ludicrous prices quoted!
So know what you want to spend, before you go out to shop!

Nevertheless, bargaining and taking home a couple of treasures is fun, but DVDs and copies are limited to 'special' official sites, so worth researching on the internet before you come as to which places will actually be open and selling what it is you wish to buy. As for me, not a
big shopper at the best of times, I will be saving any trips to the market till all the visitors have long gone, to ensure that I will get the 'best' price!!
Happy hunting.

Home from Home

Finally at last, I made it to the Hou Hai! This scenic beautiful spot, set not far from the Forbidden City, is set around a man made lake. The long
walk around the lake is lined by restaurants, bars, cafes and small boutiques, that are filled with unusual gifts and treasures.

Set in the alleyways behind the lake, are the famous Hutongs of Beijing,
streets and passages laid out like a labyrinth of adventure, as you wind your way through them, either on one of the beautiful classic pedicabs of
that particular area, or by foot, peeking in a doorway or window as you pass. The question as to whether the inhabitants are the curios or you, is
always a point of view in China.

It was only last week, as I was walking on the street past a beautiful young
woman in a turquoise blue mini dress, so lovely, but who of course was the center of attention, not her, no, the short, middle aged blond in yellow crocs!?

It was a gorgeous sunny afternoon and as work seemed to have tapered down a little due to the summer holidays, I felt like I had a 'get out of jail
free card' (monopoly) and so taking with me a couple of friends, we went
off to explore. Amazingly one of them who has been living in China for a
number of years, had of yet never been there, so it was fun to explore together.

For those who have only read of the Hutongs but have as of yet not seen them, let me describe them as the old areas of Tel Aviv and Jerusalem or
the 'alleys' of Brighton in England, places where you feel that artists once
lived or where small specialist shops can be found, surprisingly the prices quite reasonable and the wares different to the infamous 'markets' of Beijing.

As for food and drink, we were in search of Pizza and after a long, long walk and request for endless directions, found it and could be seen happily munching next to the lake, directing all the other pizza-wannabes!
Restaurants and bar prices I cannot say, but understand that there is one for every taste and pocket.

The lake itself is calm and peaceful and at night is lit up with the wooden
ferries that take private parties/or groups enhanced with a young musician playing traditional instruments. For those wishing to pedal, an
array of pedal boats, from large to small, even decorated with a swan are
available for hire, but that I will try another day.

For me, it was an afternoon/evening break and a reminder of home. For
I surely miss the 'Hutongs' of Jerusalem dearly, but this was as close as
I could get.

Friday, July 18, 2008

A Sad Time

Being far away from home can be very hard at times, not only because I miss my children and grand-daughter, but being out of the country when the nation binds together, as only Israel knows how, can be difficult too. Watching the coffins of Ehud Goldwasser and Eldad Regev being
brought home, was heartbreaking and in turn receiving warm condolences from fellow colleagues
on the happening, touching. One even went so far as to wear a tie full of flags and proudly showed me that the Israeli flag had 'pride of place on it'.

I came to Beijing with enthusiasm and excitement, hoping to be here through the build up to the
Olympic Summer Games and somehow participate in their preparation, whether through teaching English or purchasing tickets, but to share in the atmosphere.

Today unfortunately, I do not feel the same way, as the last few months have been a series of
ping-pong over the visas, tickets, spot passport checks, taxi refusal to take you because you are
a foreigner, as well as other annoying bits that makes one feel that the Olympics should have been delayed and celebrated in 2012.

A few nights ago, a firework rehearsal was done at the 'Bird's Nest' stadium, that truly highlighted the sky, but nevertheless leaves a feeling that together with the general clean up
of the city, through flowers and decorations, is just a cosmetic welcome as opposed to a truly
warm one. Personally I feel at this point, that if the government would appoint volunteers to
stand on the streets giving out free badges, stickers or flags, it would greater endear them in the
eyes of visiting nations, as opposed to only spending money on the opening and closing ceremonies, that will be forgotten within a month, whereas freebies and welcoming gestures
will go a longer way in changing the sour taste that most people have towards this year's games.

As for tickets, I have been informed from abroad that tickets will be on sale during the games, but no such notification has been given here and with the general paranoia over security and the
book of rules, I truly wonder if this will be so. As for myself, I have purchased one ticket and hopefully it will be delivered safely and I shall attend my one event and participate in the olympic festivities or harrassment depending on on how it will be at the time!

Nevertheless, all said and done, it should and hopefully will be, once the games start, an
exciting time for everyone, a coming together of people through a love of sport, in the name of
the game, a moment of harmony and all willing, peace too, I for my part intend to be there in
the thick of it - hope to see you too.

Saturday, July 5, 2008

I Thought I Knew Better!!

Well, it was raining again!!! It seems that is the normal event for Friday evenings during the Beijing
summer. The problem is that when it rains there are no taxis to be had for 'love or money!' Working
on this particular night is fun, because the center is quiet and I have time to work on my blog, but has also become another reason to stay indoors longer as there are no taxis to be had!

We are situated close to the embassy area, so there are lots of ex pat popular restaurants in the vicinity and finding an empty or even available cab, near impossible. So last night, I braved the elements and stepped out into the stormy night. Puddles were deeps and I saw a number of bedraggled people, with limp from the torrential rain umbrellas, sighing and bemoaning the lack of cabs. So, I decided, even though I was in my yellow well worn Crocs, that are non too safe on the
slippery pavement, to start to walk further along to another main road to see if I would fare better.

As has happened to me a number of times in the past, a car pulled up and asked me where I wished to go. I usually immediately refuse the offer and wait patiently, but due to past experience the previous week, having got caught for over an hour in the downpour, I decided to accept his offer and showed him my paper as to where I wished to go. We squabbled over the price of 30 to 20 yuan and set off on our way. Let me at this point explain that there are a number of Beijingers, who work as a private taxi service, not wishing to pay the high price for the taxi licence, but usually take
only those that they know. On this particular occasion, I felt sure that he thought that this dumb foreigner, could be 'taken for a ride!'.

As we set off, I gave him directions and soon enough he began to become really agitated, insisting
that I was taking him the wrong way (of course he had misread the paper as there are two places with similar names) and that the price should be 50 yuan!! He had locked the door to the car and when I told him that I would get out and make my own way, I found that the door could not be opened. Strangely though, he had left the window down, but when he saw I was trying the handle from the outside, drove faster.

By this time I was being sworn at. I was not overly worried, because I thought that I could always beat him off with my umbrella, but his eyes kept going to my handbag and I was not going to give that up without a fight!! After all, I too work hard for my money. As luck would have it, we pulled up at the next lights and a police car drew up beside us; through hand gestures I showed him that I would attract their attention or scream through the open window if he did not pull over and stop!

There were a number of people standing on the street, all stranded without a cab, so I made out as
if I was about to call out and he pulled over, at first refusing to open the door. After a moment he did and I calmly climbed out. No money was exchanged as I did not trust myself to open bag amd I walked off in the opposite direction, towards where a group of people were standing.

But, he did not go!! He stayed in his car, next to the kerb, waiting to see what I would do next.
The people began to filter out and he began to put his car into reverse. I moved quickly and turned the corner and hailed down a cab as quickly as I could, keeping an eye on the car coming in reverse in my direction!! Due to the heavy falling rain, I felt sure that he could not see me, so I dove in, crouched down on the seat, to the amazement of the cabbie and we drove off into the night!!

A few quick glances back to ensure that we were not being followed and I promise you that I learned my lesson!!




Friday, July 4, 2008

Tips & Fits

I can't believe it, in a city as large and populated in Beijing, I am now being remembered by taxi drivers!! On more than one occasion it has come to pass that a driver has taken me and known exactly where it was that I wished to go!! Please do not imagine that I am able to communicate in Chinese, but as an expert in body language and making myself understood verbally in a mixture of languages and a smattering of Chinese, I get by!

What is it? My hair, my clothes? Am I the only blond, short, 'not slim'
foreigner in Beijing? So, be warned. Driving in a taxi is always an unbelievable experience.

For those of you who will be travelling to Qingdao for the 'water' Olympics, so far as per my visit there, suntan lotion need not be on your
list of priorities. British coastline or the Mediterranean it is not, but except for the beaches near Hong Kong, this I understand is as good
as it gets. Maybe I have been spoilt, as I have lived in the sun for such
a long time, but the white sand and misty days I found disappointing.

A beach here though is much less noisy than those back home, for even though a game of badminton may be being played, at least the shuttlecock doesn't make any noise! What is nice though is how families and friends sit together on the sand, these two things being of prime importance to the natives and smiles and laughter can be seen and heard all around.

The strange part though is the tents. As far as I knew, tents are used for camping, but here they are used as a sun protector and are an essential part of the trip to the beach! If you do not have this requirement, then chairs and an enormously over sized umbrella will suffice. Clothes are the attire for women and bare flesh kept to a minimum, except for the gentlemen, who seem to be sporting 'bikini' swimming costumes as were last worn in the 70's!

Kiddies in woo lies and sandals, armed with buckets and spades, adults not even stopping to roll up their pants as they wade into the ocean, is
such an unusual sight, that I wondered at times why I was again the main
attraction, sitting on the furthest wall away from the sea, minding my own business. But nevertheless, a large amount of holiday revellers decided that I was the 'sideshow' that one had to pose with!

As for the headgear!? All sizes and shapes seem to be the latest mode
and sun visors that stick out so far, that they take up a good chunk of the road! Crocs seem to be the feet gear to wear and often mine are pointed at and commented on "oh! you have a pair too!"

But the most shocking observation of all, was the lack of bicycles!! After
Beijing where it is a wheel every second, here the 'non' event of them was the surprise. Here the traffic lights have clocks attached to them, counting down the seconds till they change. I haven't quite worked out yet if this is because the people of this city drive too fast or too slow!!

As for coffee shops and less crowded places, I did find that in this particular city, it was possible to find a more secluded spot and have a
quiet cuppa, but that is not a promise for what is to come in the Olympic
days, all I can say is good luck!

Last tips, for those Olympic ticket holders among you. There is a 57 point manual being given on the dos and don'ts of the Olympics and I suggest that you read carefully the back of your official tickets.

No food may be brought that is of a size that can be thrown. Does that
mean we can bring a bag of peas and toss one at a time??? I hope not!
I understand the concern and for a hassle and happier travel, the least
carried the better, the less that will be confiscated and to the committees
credit, low priced refreshments have been the promised order of the day.

Remember, that the idea is to have fun. It will not be easy, 'cos the inconvenience to the already crowded city will be rife, but the expectations are high and the moral needs boosting, besides there is so
much to see and take in, just stay smiley and calm - as well as polishing up your haggling skills! See you in Beijing!