Thursday, January 1, 2009

Idiosyncrasies and Resolutions

It is fun being back, China never ceases to be a place of fascination and now, a year almost to the
day since I first arrived, a time to look back. When I first entered Beijing, I was nervous everything
appeared so large and different, the language an impossibility and the culture so alien to the hubbub and speed of Israel. Here even though there were many, raised voices they were only heard at places of eating. Horns were pressed on the roads and the drivers seemed to turn corners without any traffic light indication. Here one could be knocked down by a bicycle, spoken to in a language irrelevant whether you could understand or not, stared at, even having your
ear rings touched on your person as if you did not exist! But, I had survived all the shocks and even to a point become part of this community that they call the Chaoyang District of Beijing.

Since December 2008, when I returned, I have seen the changes that have taken place since August and the influence of the foreign visitors and athletes that took part in the historic Olympics.
The stares, glances and looks on the street are far less, it seems that it has become a regular
occurrence to see foreigners in their own particular style of dress. The taxi drives, though few and
far between, are able to say a smattering of words in English, people are more helpful, although I
am not sure if that is more to do with my decorative crutches, than their new found tolerance, but
assistance and holding open doors is far more apparent, especially with my neighbors who have
even taken the garbage out of my hands to throw away or helped me take my shopping up the three
flights of stairs that I have to take into my apartment.

The most startling for me is the taxi drivers again, not in the fact that they can say a word or two in
English, but their helpfulness and tolerance towards my physical state. The large heavy brown boots that encase my feet may have something to do with this, as they are unusual, ugly and clumsy, but they manage to allow me to wear bandage and heavy socks, so what do I care about
their beauty.

As for the other peculiarities, that would be the 'fashionable' PJ's worn by the above 50 citizens of
Shanghai, that were used to wearing this particular attire on the street as a sign of prosperity and now maybe more of a show of defiance against coming hard times. Dogs, toy ones as we call them, even though hairy in appearance, are decked out fashionable attire of warm woolly and elegant coats, as their hair springs up and down as they trot down the road for their daily strolls.

Business dinners are an important part of closing a deal here in Asia, but for me the ever westerner/Israeli who is used to both the cutlery 'start from the outside and work your way in' attitude as well as there is nothing like 'mopping up the Hummus with a piece of pitta bread' style of eating,
can not quite fathom how one can close a deal whilst slurping up ones noodles! this i still have to learn.

For me, Asia has become more westernised, more McDonald's said to be opening all around the country, Chinese students who have gone abroad for their diplomas, are now returning to seek jobs back home due to the lack of abroad and bringing with them new ideas. Foreigners seeking employment were in their thousands at a recruitment fair held in America, but places were limited
as the government ensures that there is work for its citizens first. Here you enter any store and find
an abundance of assistants standing around waiting to help. There are more than is necessary, but
is a warming sight to see, for nevertheless that the pay is low, it is still better than claiming benefits and provides uniform and many a time lunch for the employee. Rather some change in your pocket, less clothes needed to buy, a reason to get up in the morning and a warm stomach, than to
have to stand in line for a handout.

Tourism though has hit, even the famous places such as Xian, the home of the Terracotta soldiers,
for even history cannot stop the economic unrest. Many construction companies and factories have
sent their employees home for a forced vacation till after the Spring Festival, the Chinese New Year, with no guarantees that the work will begin again in February, others having to take 30% of
their salary, but remain on site. But, on the other hand, there are those who are being laid off, with
no sign of hope of re employment at that firm in sight, worldwide. To help the local economy, the
Chinese Government issues a list of all the National holidays that will take place this coming year
and have made a number of 'long' weekends, with Sunday, the day after the break, becoming a
work day, to encourage spending. It is a sign of festivity for 'Beijingers' to go out to eat over this time, with family entourage. On the night of 31 December, the whole city was lit up as if it was
La's Vegas at 9.30pm, but the streets deserted and un walked upon by 11pm except for the odd
ex pat reveller.

But, here in Asia, childish activities and fun are part of the normal style of life, where Disney Tokyo
is bringing in the numbers and Lego beating all holiday sales. Bicycling on ice is an activity
where you get to ride a bike on a frame attached to a pair of ski/skates! Here the freezing winter
is not heralded with rain, but a dry one that leaves your bones frozen and even a little stiff. Padded
coats giving a layered look are the must winter wear, with boots encasing ones legs and a hood
usually fur lined (no worries about harm being done to animals here) encasing the face. Gloves, well you shouldn't leave home without them and I suggest that someone come up with an idea for
a nose warmer, which would appear a lot more elegant than the face (operation room) masks worn
in vogue, not only as a protection at the rising pollution's return, but as a muffler against the cold icy
wind.

Lastly, happily and thankfully the skies are still mainly blue and from time to time, grey does put
in an appearance, known as the Beijing sky and I have to smile when a student will point out that
in films about England, they too have this 'look' of smog and fog, which leads me to explain that this
was true at the time of 'Jack the Ripper' but now is only due to bad weather. I am not sure if they
quite believe me, I wonder if I should tell them about the beautiful blue skies of the Middle East?
but have decided that maybe not, for they probably wouldn't believe me about that either.



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