Friday, June 6, 2008

A saddened place

My return ticket to Beijing was via the Ukraine, through its capital city Kiev.
Strangely enough I had a niggling feeling that this city should be familiar to me, but for some reason could not place why. At the airport I discovered that my flight had been delayed and settled down with my delicious sandwiches that had
been made and provided for me by my daughter. (Every traveller should have some), I knew though that there was no chance of me going hungry, as I also had a 1kg tub of 'Humus' in my carry on, so I was well set up for my journey.
(It took me almost 3 weeks to work my way through it!)

At the gate I noticed that there seemed to be an unusual amount of Ultra Orthodox (religious) men and women milling around, till it then dawned on me
why the name of the city in Eastern Europe was so familiar, for it was the home
of many a past sage, who had lived or died before or during the Holocaust period. Excited, I timidly approached one of the travellers. This was not out of fear, but more of respect, as I was dressed in thoroughly modest, but nevertheless modern attire, to engage in conversation as to where exactly they were going and how long such a journey took.

Since my childhood, I had avidly read the 'adventurers' of one of the greatest
Sages; I had read from cover to cover countless times the stories of his wisdom
and guidance and had only recently discovered that he was in fact buried some
500 miles from the capital city. After an exchange and questions being asked
and answered, I realised that the possibility of my visiting the graveyard this trip was impossible and had to resign myself to a second visit at a later date.

Upon arrival, delayed by a number of hours, it was to discover that there were no rooms of any nature available in or around the city, as an exhibition was on and there was not a place to spare. Wishing to settle down in the airport to sleep, it was to discover that this even though a major city, mini Moscow, this particular airport was a sight for sore eyes, Stan stead in England, Pap hos in
Cyprus, would appear to be ultra facilitated and modern in comparison!

Finding a wonderfully kind taxi driver, named Alexander, he chauffeured me from place to place, till at last we found one vacant spot, that would use my limited resource of dollars, so leaving him short for the return taxi fare the following morning, but upon his insistence, I moved in for the night and fell into
an exhausted slumber.

If you are planning to travel in Eastern Europe, you must be armed with local
currency or at least dollars, sterling or euro to exchange (I only had Chinese rmb) as most places are not equipped even for credit cards. As morning broke,
I ventured out of my hotel room. I found myself in the very center of this old
city. Unlike other cities that I had visited in the East, Poland and Hungary, this was a place that resembled past beauty, as in a faded work of art, or an elegant
aristocrat of a past age, well worn and broken due to hardship and poverty. This once beautiful city was undergoing major renovation in order to return it to some of its former glory.

The streets are cobbled and broken, the houses chipped and brown, muddied by neglect, poverty and a hard winter. Nevertheless, walking through the old Jewish Ghetto and quarter, the city has an undercurrent, a vibrancy filled with
melancholy and past richness. Many a stall holder is out selling their wares, refusing to be photographed, lest it should be used in a future mug shot. My new found friend, my driver, told me that many a true antique bargain can be
found there and that in summer the streets are lined with eager visiting tourists, hoping to find a genuine antique.

Progress nevertheless is coming to this place, as McDonald's, Starbucks, Pizza
and other Western delights, line the streets, trying to bring a sense of normality into the dismal. Charming, but sad, I shall certainly return to that place, for it
is steeped in memories for us from past atrocities done by the Germans at
Babi Yar, the forest where young and old were massacred and the history of
the sages, who left their mark in their books, for all to follow their teachings.

At the airport though, I witnessed a new kind of 'modern torture'. No overweight is allowed, fines must be paid, visas produced and any offending item removed at security, but all this is done by 'un smiling' even stern not
unattractive female police/custom officers, who walk around in 'mini' skirts, dark stockings and high heels! I couldn't help but hide my mirth, as many a male was reprimanded and forced to pay a fine, but trying unsuccessfully to avert his eyes from the 'legs' of the officer standing in front of him, as he had to
hand over the required sum.

As for me and my overdraft?! Well, I offered to pay in Chinese Currency, but as
this was a no goer and I was unintimidated by a female officer, I was let off with a warning and fine less!!!

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