Not an ordinary wall!

Finally at last, I managed to find a full uninterrupted day free to take a day trip out to visit the
Great Wall of China. Unwilling to join a tourist bus, I decided to take a local one to the less visited site of Mutianyu. There are around four or more possiblities of where to go to see the wall, but I chose the 'cheats' one, that has a chair lift or cable car as possibilities of finding your
way to the top.

Inviting a student along for company and of course interpretaion, which proved to be quite easy as obviously there are many a traveller to this spot, not only foreigners, but Chinese too, we found our bus 916 at the long distance travel station quite easily. The one thing that one has to be careful of, is that you take the right bus from the right stop, as there are two possibilities, one taking a two and a half hour roundabout journey and the other using the highway, cutting the travel time down to half.

The bus a mere 11 yuan per person and quite clean and comfortable, had a helpful conductress too. At the bus station we had added to our party a couple from Spain, that felt there was more
chance on getting to the right place if they joined us. Upon arrival at the 'end of the line' we were
pounced upon by a number of mini bus drivers, all wishing to get our fare and after a short negotiation, of 10 yuan per person, we drove for half an hour to the appointed spot. This fee included the driver waiting for our return, irrelevant of how long that would be!

As we disembarked from our cab at the parking lot, I glanced up at the mountain. Having seen in the past the impressiveness of the Masada Fortress (Dead Sea, Israel), the wonder of the Pyramids in Egypt I was not sure what my reaction would be to the Great Wall itself. I can only say that it is awesome! From the distance one cannot see the work that went into it, but the sheer length and breadth is what makes it amazing.

Making our way up the path we now had to choose are method of getting to the top. The young couple chose to hike and myself and young companion, chose the open chair lift. He admittedly was non to sure about this, but seeing that I was embarking on this adventure with gusto, agreed to do it too. As the chair swinging in the gusty breeze, made its way up to the top, I felt exhilerated; here I was out under the blue sky, away from the stuffiness of the city, out in the fresh hair, making my way to an ancient wall, that would remind me of my home city in Jerusalem.

As I was tugged off the chair and guided out of the way of being hit by it, I made my way up the
cobble stoned path. Here one could feel the history and only wonder how they had got up there to build this amazing pass. Entering through one of the gates, you can only wonder at the magic of the place and memories of David Copperfield magician sprung into my mind. In front of you
besides the view between the turrets is a slabbed stairwell way, either turning to the east or west. Splitting from my young companion, leaving him to conquer the way from one end to the other, about a two and a half hour 'walk', I made my way up and down as many steps as I chose, pausing, stopping, looking in wonderment at this amazing site. Here I was, standing on one of the true wonders of the world, breathing in the clean air and lost in enthrallment!

I can only say, that the true beauty of this spot, is not where you are standing, but looking up into the higher mountain tops and seeing the uncleaned paths, the ones that are still covered in weeds, unattended and stunning high above the valley below. What engineering, what vision, what will and determination built this site. After a while, I just sat myself down on one of the steps and gazed around me; of course starting a trend, because when I looked back, I saw that I
had attracted a whole entourage of visitors, all perched or poised on different parts of the stairwell behind me!

What can I say in my defense, I seem to attract attention wherever I go, but did succeed in going
down in the chairlift without a peep or squeal!

Further notes of wonder

It seems weekly I have to list further observations of these warm and touchy people. If a porcupine is prickly, I think that some of the population here have thorns. It is not that they are not polite, just that they are overly sensitive of exposure to westerners.

I have always counted myself as a non political person and know that many will agree with me that I am such, but here in Beijing I have been branded as the opposite, for I introduce or allow to be discussed too many controversial subjects, that are brought up by the students own curiosity and need to know! So for all of you business, or tourists wishing to travel to China whether for the Olympics or otherwise, be warned, do not ask or speak about the French, Japanese, Taiwan, Tibet, boycott or any other tidbit of interest and should the subject be brought up and an opinion requested, just politely refuse to comment!

I was stunned to hear from one of my students that she had been brave enough, at the advice of her father, to have the 'eye laser' procedure done some seven odd years ago! It was an extremely brave step, as here the opinion is that using the laser 'pollutes the air!'.

It is with fascination that I watch the Chinese in their inborn balance ability whether it be on bicycle, roller blades or a little child skipping along the uneven and somewhat daunting steps of the Great Wall! When I asked other Asians, who are not citizens whether they had the same
ability, I was told that they had not.

Taxi drivers, for all their ability to frustrate and infuriate the passenger, start to drive a little before they actually turn on the meter, I am not sure if this is just a quirk of their motors, or a
little reverence for a foreigner, but it is nice to see that they are not so 'finger on the button' happy as you enter, but make sure that you are settled as they drive off.

For a country of the flat chested, it is not surprising that here the men are more into legs than
boobs. It was a rare sight for me then to meet a young lady with a healthy endowment and
catch myself from asking where she had got them done!! So saying, as I was waiting at an appointed spot a couple of nights ago to meet up with a couple of students for a farewell evening for one of them who was going back to her native land, I was stunned when two women came up to stand next to me, openly staring, eyed me up and down and continued to have a 'pull apart' conversation about me!! What did I do? I gave them my most disdainful look, ignored them and they stole reluctantly away.

At the same spot, almost in the same position, I had opportunity to watch a couple obviously trying to contact some friends whom they were supposed to meet, by phone, the boyfriend, better dressed than the girl, was attempting to be patient and loving, but she, more than once
or twice, was hitting him openly in public! and the weirdest part was that he was letting her!!
It was not merely a playful slap on the shoulder, but on the cheek. In a country with such a large population and no shortage of choice, I cannot understand why or how he would allow himself to be treated in such a way, especially in public!?

Here in Beijing and I understand the same goes for Hong Kong and Shanghai, the term 'Shop till
you drop' certainly applies, Dr Phil if you are looking for a new posting, China would certainly suit the bill, as here the word 'shopaholic' certainly applies. How do they do it you may well ask?
Well, let us say that there are some advantages in having a one child family and a more simple household. Their obvious pleasure that you see on their faces can only make one smile, as there
is no en cumbersome worry as to whether they can afford it.

Lastly, the slogan for the Olympics reads 'One world one dream', a student pointed out to me this week, that the exact translation should be 'same world same dream' and he asked me which one I preferred, I am not telling, but now I ask you, which one do you like better?

A Confused Taxi Driver!

Four evenings a week, from Monday to Thursday I leave the Berlitz office in Chaoyang District and hail a cab to take me on a forty to forty five minute drive, to a hi tech company on the other side of the city, on the outskirts of the fourth ring road. This particular evening was much the same as any other and I had left myself plenty of time to get there (my days of being late largely modified).

Without too much difficulty, I hailed a cab, gave the area of where I wished to go and settled myself down in the back seat, opening my engrossing detective story to whittle away the time.
After about twelve minutes, the taxi came to a halt and I only raised my eyes to see what was the problem, as I heard the driver close the fare on the meter. His face turned around to mine, looked expectantly for his fare.

As I glanced out of the window, I realised that I was now in a place that I had never been to before, had now idea where I was and was expected to vacate the cab and pay the fare. I tried first in a reasonable voice, with hand gestures and repeatedly stating my destination to explain that this was not the place I wanted and even though he kept repeating the name of the place back to me, nodding his head in expression that I was the one making the error, we were getting nowhere!

So, I went ballistic, started swearing away at him in a non native language, calling him an incompetent idiot, cursing all taxi drivers especially those in Beijing that could not speak 'the universal lingo' opened the cab door, shook my fist and head at the meter, in a gesture of refusal to pay the 10 yuan (about 5 nis) and told the 'wanna be' new passenger in english that he was
entering the cab at his own risk, as the driver was a total non knowledgeable driver!

I then ran frantically from corner to corner of the street, trying in vain to hail a new cab, knowing that this fiasco was now possibly to cause my lateness of arriving at my destination on time!
Almost in tears of frustration, I finally managed to hail a 'don't want to take you driver' (common in Beijing) and only after gesturing with my telephone to his licence number and pretending to dial his company, did he reluctantly allow me to enter his cab.

Now we were stuck in the most unmoving traffic that I have been in for a long time, but as I had
no power over the matter, sat back and nibbled my already shortened nails. Eventually, we managed to drive onto the familiar highway and I reopened my engrossing detective thriller and settled down for the rest of the drive. As we neared my correct destination, I closed the book somewhat reluctantly and gave the final instructions on how to reach my place of teaching.

It was only some few days later, that I recalled this incident and it suddenly dawned on me what had happened. I had told the drive Wanfujing instead of Wanjing!, he of course had taken me to
the correct destination as per to what I had said!! I had cause not only to be ashamed of my mistake, but remembered too that I had refused to pay the fare!

Now I pause to wonder, if the difficulties that I have been having lately in securing a cab, is not because that particular driver has not posted a bulletin about me to all fellow cabbies, issuing a warning, take that crazy woman at your own peril!

Hatishyoo!!! (bless you!)

Well, now they tell me! 'Spring is the worst season', I have been hearing all week. If I remember correctly, those very same words were said to me when I came in January. 'Why did you come now? Winter in Beijing is very hard' they would say.

Truth be told, we are never happy, every season in every place brings its own share of problems and difficulties. I never even knew that I could suffer from Hay Fever before I got here! In England one is used to rainy weather and at most don't leave the house without the faithful 'brolly'. Many a picture has been shown of those City Gents, in their bowler hats, newspaper tucked under an arm, small smart briefcase and of course the every useful black, wooden handled, full length, umbrella. Of course it can be used for any number of things, such us hailing a cab (hot forgetting to throw a 'loose' with the wooden handle at some other 'wanna a taxi' person, if they dare to step in your path, or just to test the puddles depth before you step inside, or as a handle on a moving train so as not to use excessive arm strain.

In Beijing on the other hand, for a city that almost sees no rain, the sighs of relief and joy at the heavy blobs that fell from the sky, made me think that I was back in Israel, listening to the daily news informing citizens on how much the water level of the Sea of Galilee had risen. The skies seemed to darken alarmingly, the whole skyline turning almost a charcoal grey, when the rain began to fall, big splattering sounds they made as they beat the ground and unbelievingly, a whole array of umbrellas appeared in the passer bys hands. Did they have warning of the upcoming shower?

As for the sneezing, it changes positions of discomfort depending on the day. The day of the rain, my nose seemed to be of a better disposition, but I appeared to have a sore throat and scratchy voice; thereafer when all skies had cleared and the 'fluffy bits' that seem to fall from the blossoming trees returned, it was now time for streaming eyes, boxes of tissues and a hay fever ailment that I never knew I had!! Abroad they at least say on the news or write in the newspaper the count that day, but here all seem immune except for the comment........ 'Spring is......worst
season!'.

But, finally on a last not of observation, in this city of the ever riding bicyclist, I can only stand by and admire, it is amazing how these citizens manage to ride with one hand on the handle of their bike, the other holding an open umbrella, pedalling furiously along in the rain, without
even a skid mark or swerve to re-balance in sight and as for the male population, they don't worry at all about looking like a sissy, they adorn themselves with feminine colored umbrellas, the brighter the better, weaving their way through the traffic that is almost at a standstill and not a free cab to be found intent on making their way to work on foot, in order to be on time.

Next Year in ........?

The Jewish holiday of Passover began last night. For those who do not know what this festival is all about, I will explain in brief. Their are three major events in the Jewish Calendar, besides major Fast Days and New Year. These occasions fall in the spring, at the start of summer and in the autumn. Each one commemorates a different historical time.

The festival of Passover, that usually coincides with Easter, but not this year as there was a leap year in the Jewish Calendar, reminds all of the most important event in Jewish History, the coming out of Egypt, under the guiding hand of Moses, who had been instructed by God to make sure that Pharaoh, the king of the land at that time, 'Let His People Go'. A story book written in
Hebrew, tells the tale of the event and some of the following scenes that took place during the time of the destruction of the Temple.

Through song, verse, prayer and ritual, it is an important event that is spent together with loved ones and friends, a coming together of rejoicing, story telling and good eating. In our house, my children and I, would enjoy this time of year particularly and would at times invite others to share with us this occasion. We would sit long into the night telling and reading the story, as well as myself adding tales of explanation and facts that were passed down to me during my childhood. We would laugh and sing and make sure that we read the book from cover to cover, the telling being more important to us than the eating of the meal.

Rituals were strictly observed and traditions carried out, those of the past and those of our making. So, it was hard to be apart on this night. The youngest making his own meal in England, the third with his girlfriend's family in northern Israel, the second joining his sister, husband and baby at his parents house in the centre of the country. As for myself, I could have joined a Habad evening Seder at the Renaissance Hotel, but decided at the last minute that I did not want to spend money to attend their meal, however nice, but to do it on my own with the 'do it yourself kit' that my daughter had sent me from Israel and spent a pleasant, if not emotional evening reading and singing all the words and songs from the 'Hagaddah' the book that is used for that night.

One of the songs sung is 'Next Year In Jerusalem', so I say, next year together with all my family! It was different and that in itself is a good thing, but the best was when the children told me that they had thought of me, missed me and our time of being all together, that was the greatest moment, to know that I am appreciated, not for just being mummy, but for what I bring to the family. Thank you kids, I love you.

Lonely Traveller

Upon speaking to one of my sons this week about backpacking and travelling, it occurred to me that the above do not always 'tell the truth' or at the time they are experiencing all, they prefer to keep the problems and difficulties to themselves.

In Beijing I had opportunity to meet what can only be described as 'well dressed' temporary visitors. They came as a team, full of hope and expectation, willingness and eagerness to work, open availability and optimism. But, then after a brief two months, they had packed up their bags, almost without a by your leave and were off home for one and a new country for the other.

What went wrong? Was there a miscommunication on either side, or too much expectation? Did disappointment set in too fast, or the visa difficulties of the Olympics made it not worth the effort. Or was it simply a holiday romance turning sour with too much stress? It made me think
of myself. Romanticism is overrated. Each one makes their own choices when travelling and you have to remember to stick to your plan and original agenda. The minute that the adventure does not keep up with your expectations, is to hang up your 'boots' and set off home.

As for myself, do not think that it is easy to set myself apart from my loved ones, whether it be family or friend, but for now it is the right place to be. The learning experience is wonderful and the respect shown heady. The classroom has proven to be an interesting place to be in, not only one that shares language, but the opportunity to share culture and thoughts and truly fulfil the meaning of the word teacher. Today I think I was paid one of the nicest compliments that I have received since coming here. One of my lady students, told me that she repeated to her mother most of what I shared with them in class, including my ideas and way of life. She continued to say that her mother shared most of my opinions and was so happy that I was able to express them to her daughter, for she would not have known of how to start.

I found these words, heartwarming and supportive, especially when she went on to say that they, the students, viewed me as an 'earth mother'. It is not that I have not been told comments like these in the past, it is simply that to be told such words from a Chinese person, who is living in a time of 'reform' and change, was emotional and touching. I must admit that I am greedily looking forward to more!

Every week I try to bring forward new discussions and last week was no exception. The question of whether China is now a 'classed' society is one that comes up often and the fact that
now in Cuba citizens are allowed to own Mobile Phones! One never sees one's own hunchback, only that of others. The story of boycotting Carree continues, with the French Ambassador
making a statement that he wants to meet with the Chinese athlete that was 'set upon' by the French protesters, even though she was confined to a wheelchair, because he is sorry for the poor treatment that she received in Paris. The Chinese are still intending to boycott the supermarket chain from the first of May, but that doesn't stop them meanwhile from shopping there in bulk to stock up. Seriously though, the reason for their insistence on continuing with their threat, is to show solidarity with their country, in the only way they feel they can.

Even though I don't believe it is going to be effective, I understand their motives and admire their passion, but did point out that I personally have no love for the French, as my ex husband was one, but the French at the moment seem to dislike everybody and are even 'up in arms' that the French song chosen for the Euro vision contest is to be sung partly in English; as the singer explained 'it is the only way for him to express the meaning of the song!' Whoops, that sounds a little anti-french itself to me, be that the people or language?

As for America, that brought its own controversy, as outside the White House you had Catholic protesters protesting against the Protestant protesters, those who were atheist protesting the visit altogether and those who felt if he hadn't come to add financial support to the falling economy, who needed him!! I could not help wonder if people were bored and had nothing better to do with their time!

I still say to my students, if someone doesn't want to come, let them stay at home. That they should calm down and not take it all so personally for it works both ways. Visa update.. for those of you who are planning to come to China at present, remember a ticket to the Olympics is imperative or to be part of a tour. Business visas are only being issued for two monthly periods and all forms have to be filled in with a black pen, doing the for-mentioned does not automatically grant you plain sailing, but hopefully will help cut down on some frustration!

Sport Shoes with a Suit?!

Idiosyncrasies of China, never cease to amaze me. On my way to work this week I had to smile
to myself at the sights that met my gaze. On one side of the road, the only joggers/sprinters that
I saw, exposing themselves to the humid day, were foreigners. There they were sweating away,
exposing their legs in quite short shorts sprinting down the road. the amount of Chinese bicyclists that turned their heads to see these odd pairs or groups, was amazing to me that no one ended up in a head on collision!

On the other side of the street, I saw not one, but a number of Chinese men, making their way
to work, dressed in 'smart' suits, but with sport shoes on their feet. There was no extra bag in their hands, so I could swear that they had no intention of changing into more elegant shoes upon arrival and then again there were the sportively dressed pedestrians that were wearing smart black slip on shoes!

The attempt at smart dress in the men's department, still leaves room for improvement and help. Even though there are a number of elegant shops for men and the infamous 'Silk Market'
has enough attire to dress the whole of the male population in Beijing, it is not a place that is visited by the Chinese native of this city, but only the foreigner forever looking for a bargain.
So, the day wear of these local gentleman, lands up looking 'shiny'. It is not the well worn shininess that I am referring to, but the choice of buying the wrong material, that gleams and shimmers in the sun. It makes them look 'sweaty' and unkempt, which is a shame, because with the right choice of fabric and cut, with their slender and fit bodies from regular exercise, they could look a whole lot better. I am surprised that their wives and girlfriends, that do take care
of their own appearance, do not say something to them. Is this against Chinese culture?

For the frequent traveller amongst you, I will let you know the latest trends that are coming Beijing way. C & A, although now closed in England, has one small establishment here, Zara is expanding, but more importantly Marks & Sparks, H & M are intending to be here by the end of the year and Top Shop (only for the matchsticks) is coming along here too. It sounds from the above as if I am an avid shopper, but of course those of you who know me well, know this to be untrue. But as always, I like to be in the know and have succeeded in my brief time here to know more about the 'lay of the land' and cultural habits of the inhabitants than many others who have lived here a while.

Keep watching this spot, I shall update you of more 'inside Beijing tidbits and useless information'
all in good time!